IF YOU CAN’T FEED EM, DON’T BREED EM!!

You can’t keep your pet? Really?
Our society needs a huge “Wake-up” call.  I am going to share a little insight with you all…a “view from the inside” – if you will.
First off, any of you whom have surrendered a pet to a shelter or humane society should be made to work in the “back” of an animal shelter – for just ONE DAY.

 

Maybe if you saw the life drain from those sad, lost, confused eyes, you’d stop flagging the ads on here and help these animals find homes. That puppy you just dropped off will most-likely end up in my shelter when it’s no longer a cute little puppy anymore. Just so you know, there’s a 90% chance that your dog will never walk out back out, once entered in to the shelter system…Purebred or not! About 25% of all of the dogs that are “owner surrenders” or “strays” that come into a shelter are purebred dogs.

The most common excuses: “We’re moving and can’t take our dog (or cat).” Really? Where are you moving to that doesn’t allow pets?
Or they say “The dog got bigger than we thought it would”. How big did you think a German Shepherd would get?

“We don’t have time for her”. Really? I work a 10-12 hour day and still have time for my 6 dogs!

“She’s tearing up our yard”. How about making her a part of your family?

“We just don’t want to have to stress about finding a place for her & we know she’ll get adopted, she’s a good dog”. Odds are, your pet won’t get adopted & how stressful do you think it is for your pet?

Did you know…

Your pet has 72 hours to find a new family from the moment you drop it off? Sometimes a little longer if the shelter isn’t full
and your dog/cat manages to stay completely healthy.
If it sniffles, it is euthanized.
Your pet will be confined to a small run/kennel in a room
with other barking & crying animals.
It will have to relieve itself where it eats and sleeps.
It will be depressed and will cry constantly for you.
If your pet is lucky, there will be enough volunteers in that day
to take him/her for a walk.
If not, your pet won’t get any attention besides having a bowl of food slid under the kennel door and the waste sprayed out of it’s pen with a high-powered hose.
If your dog is big, black or any of the “Bully” breeds (pit bull, rottie, mastiff, etc) it was pretty much dead when you walked it through the front door.
If your cat is scared and doesn’t act friendly enough, or if it catches a cold (which most of them ‘do’), it will be put to sleep.

Those dogs & cats just don’t get adopted. In most cases, it doesn’t matter how ‘sweet’ or ‘well behaved’ they are. If your pet doesn’t get adopted within it’s 72 hours and the shelter is full, it will be destroyed. If the shelter isn’t full and your pet is good enough,
and of a desirable enough breed it may get a stay of execution,
but not for long.

Most dogs get very kennel protective after about a week and are
destroyed for showing aggression. Even the sweetest dogs will turn in this environment.

If your pet makes it over all of those hurdles chances are it will get kennel cough or an upper respiratory infection and will be destroyed because the shelter gets paid a fee to euthanize each animal and making money is better than spending money to take this animal to the vet.

Here’s a little euthanasia 101 for those of you that have never witnessed a perfectly healthy, scared animal being “put-down”.

First, your pet will be taken from its kennel on a leash. They always look like they think they are going for a walk…happy, wagging their tails…until they get to “The Room”, every one of them freaks out and puts on the brakes when they get to the door.
It must smell like death or they can feel the sad souls that are left in there. It’s strange, but it happens with every one of them.

Your dog or cat will be restrained, held down by 1 or 2 shelter workers, depending on the size and how freaked out they are.
Then a shelter worker who we call a “euthanasia tech (not a vet)”
finds a vein in the front leg and injects a lethal dose of the “pink stuff”.

Hopefully your pet doesn’t panic from being restrained and jerks.
I’ve seen the needles tear out of a leg and been covered with the resulting blood…the yelps and screams are deafening.

They all don’t just “go to sleep”, sometimes they spasm for a while,
gasp for air and defecate on themselves.

You see, shelters are trying to make money to pay employee pay checks and then, there’s the board of directors…who need to be paid too!

Consequently, corners are cut, & we don’t spend our funds to
tranquilize the animal before injecting them with the lethal drug,
we just put the burning lethal drug in their vein and let them suffer until dead.

If it were not a business for profit, we’d do it humanely and hire a
licensed vet do this procedure. That way, the animal would be sedated or tranquilized and THEN euthanized.

But to do this procedure correctly would only cost more money…
so we don’t necessarily do what is right for the animal, we do what’s expedient so we can continue to make a buck!

Shelters do not have to have a vet perform their euthanasia procedures. Oftentimes, they are untrained personnel administering lethal injections. So… that employee may take 50 pokes with a needle and 3 hours to get inside the vein.

In the end, your pet’s corpse will be stacked like firewood in a large freezer, usually in the back of the building with all of the other animals that were killed. There they will sit until being picked up like garbage.

What happens next? Cremated? Taken to the dump? Rendered into pet food? Or used for schools to dissect and experiment on?

You’ll never know and it probably won’t even cross your mind. After all, it was just an animal and you can always buy another one, right?!

I hope that those of you who still have a beating heart and have read this are bawling your eyes out and can’t get the pictures out of your head. I deal with this everyday. I hate my job, I hate that it exists & I hate that it will always be there unless you people make changes and start educating yourselves, your children, the public.
Do the research, do your homework, and know exactly what you are getting into before getting a pet. These shelters and humane societies exist because people just do not care about animals anymore. And PLEASE stop breeding!

Dangers of Advantage Flea Treatment

You probably think you’re doing the right thing for your pet when you apply a flea treatment, but many over-the-counter pet pesticides contain toxic chemicals that may harm or even kill your pet. If your pooch is prone to infestations, there are safer, alternative ways to keep him pest-free without harm. Here are a few facts on the highly popular Advantage flea treatment.

Neurotoxins

• The active ingredient in Advantage is imidacloprid, a neurotoxin. Imidacloprid has been tested by the FDA and deemed safe, but testing procedures used high doses in eight divided applications. In one of the studies, several very young kittens died, but these animals were younger than the recommended safe age for use. Long-term effects are unknown. Cumulative effects are not tested by the FDA prior to a drug release.

Inert Ingredients

• Advantage contains 90 percent “inert” ingredients. That sounds safe, doesn’t it? But inert ingredients may not be safe. Inert simply means it does not contribute to the activity of the drug–it will not kill fleas. To protect company’s trade secrets, inert ingredients are not required to be–and usually are not–disclosed. But they can be toxic, carcinogenic, highly allergenic or all of the above.

  Overdose

  • Bayer recommends that Advantage be administered every month, more frequently in severe conditions. But they caution not to exceed dosage recommendations and contact a veterinarian if in the case of accidental overdose. Symptoms of neurotoxin overdose include confusion, tremors, head shaking and seizures. If you chose to use this product, purchase the dosage strength appropriate to your dog or cat’s weight. Do not use Advantage on very young puppies or kittens.

  Cat and Dog Formulations

  • Dogs and cats react differently to the chemicals used to control fleas. Never use a product labeled for dogs on your cat. Even small amounts can be dangerous or lethal to a cat. Even though the products carry the same brand name, the formulations may be very different. In some cases, cats can be adversely affected by simply contacting the fur of a dog that has been treated.

    Bathing

    • Giving your pet a flea bath or bathing your pet shortly after applying pesticides can be dangerous if you use hot water because the chemicals are absorbed through the skin’s open pores too quickly and may overload your pet’s system.

    Symptoms of Pesticide Poisoning

    • Some of the symptoms of pesticide poisoning include lethargy, tremors, vomiting, confusion, seizures and drooling.

  Wash Thoroughly

  • The instructions that come with topical flea control products such as Advantage advise against allowing the product to come in contact with your skin. It further cautions that if exposure occurs, you should wash immediately. Thoroughly. Quickly. In the minds of many people, these instructions call the product’s safety into question.

  Interactions

  • The company states that there are no known drug interactions with imidacloprid, but suggests that pet owners consult with a veterinarian before using the product on “medicated animals, animals using this product with other pesticides, and debilitated, aged, pregnant or nursing animals.”

  Safer Alternatives

  • If your dog suffers from severe flea bite allergies, you may wish to use a topical flea treatment once or twice a season. Year round use is not recommended. Diatomaceous earth, a non-toxic powder made from the fossilized algae, can be used as a perimeter control or used as a flea dust. Certain essential oils such as cedar and pennyroyal discourage fleas as well. Healthy skin deters fleas; a regular grooming program and a sensible diet will help keep your dog or cat’s skin flea free.

Taking Care of Dogs in Cold Weather

Dogs get cold in the cold weather just like people do and it is important to make sure your dog is as comfortable as you can make the dog. Some dogs have heavy coats to protect them from the elements but most dogs even if they have a fine coat of fur can really feel the bite of cold weather. There natural coats may not keep him warm outdoors depending on how cold it is outside. Of course some dogs like Huskies like it cold outside but you still have to watch the weather to make sure they don’t get too cold.

If a dog is use to being indoors cold weather can really set in on the dogs since the dog is used to warm temperatures of the indoors. If a dog is an outside dog extremely cold temperatures are not good for the dog either. If you have an indoor dog and you are cold chances are the dog is cold to, inside dogs are use to the same indoor temperature that you are. If it is cold out and your dog has to go outside for a bit little booties may help him be more comfortable.

A good rule for humans to follow is if the temperature outside is Twenty degrees or less then a dog should not spend a lot of time outside. Maybe just a short trip to the bathroom and then they should come back in to warm up. If you take your dog ofr a walk you may want to consider the dogs comfort as well as your own. maybe a little doggy coat would help yet some dogs are hardy enough to go for a walk in just their natural coat. A cat should not be outside at all in temperatures less then twenty degrees since cats are not made for temperatures that cold.

There are ways you can help protect your dog from the cold and make there life more comfortable. One thing you can do for your dog is to shovel a path to a place that your dog likes to go. That way the dog will not have to fight walking through deep snow to get to their favorite spot. Dogs usually have a favorite place they like to check up on and smiff at everyday. It is their territory and a habit to check on certain places.

If your dog lives outside all the time it is best to keep there house off the ground. Insulating the house with clean dry straw and plenty of nice blankets will help the dog stay warm in winter. A dog likes to bundle itself up in blankets when it is cold and a little insulation of fine straw can go a long way for added comfort from the cold. If you have two dogs and they get along with each other if they can share the same house they can use each other for warmth by cuddling up together. If the temperature drops below twenty degrees it is best and most humane to invite your dog to stay in your nice warm house with you. Dogs can get very lonely and they love to have your company. A dog can be great company for a human too.

If you didn’t get your dog inside in time and you notice some of your dog’s skin is red, gray, white or black it could be frostbite and that can be very serious. Take your dog to see your Veterinarian as soon as you can. Remember your dog depends on you for all of his care, needs and safety. Your dog depends on you that you will take care of him and make sure that the dog in comfortable. If you take proper care of your dog you will have many rewards from you dog and the dog will be forever greatful.

Taking Care of Dogs in Cold Weather

Dogs get cold in the cold weather just like people do and it is important to make sure your dog is as comfortable as you can make the dog. Some dogs have heavy coats to protect them from the elements but most dogs even if they have a fine coat of fur can really feel the bite of cold weather. There natural coats may not keep him warm outdoors depending on how cold it is outside. Of course some dogs like Huskies like it cold outside but you still have to watch the weather to make sure they don’t get too cold.

If a dog is use to being indoors cold weather can really set in on the dogs since the dog is used to warm temperatures of the indoors. If a dog is an outside dog extremely cold temperatures are not good for the dog either. If you have an indoor dog and you are cold chances are the dog is cold to, inside dogs are use to the same indoor temperature that you are. If it is cold out and your dog has to go outside for a bit little booties may help him be more comfortable.

A good rule for humans to follow is if the temperature outside is Twenty degrees or less then a dog should not spend a lot of time outside. Maybe just a short trip to the bathroom and then they should come back in to warm up. If you take your dog ofr a walk you may want to consider the dogs comfort as well as your own. maybe a little doggy coat would help yet some dogs are hardy enough to go for a walk in just their natural coat. A cat should not be outside at all in temperatures less then twenty degrees since cats are not made for temperatures that cold.

There are ways you can help protect your dog from the cold and make there life more comfortable. One thing you can do for your dog is to shovel a path to a place that your dog likes to go. That way the dog will not have to fight walking through deep snow to get to their favorite spot. Dogs usually have a favorite place they like to check up on and smiff at everyday. It is their territory and a habit to check on certain places.

If your dog lives outside all the time it is best to keep there house off the ground. Insulating the house with clean dry straw and plenty of nice blankets will help the dog stay warm in winter. A dog likes to bundle itself up in blankets when it is cold and a little insulation of fine straw can go a long way for added comfort from the cold. If you have two dogs and they get along with each other if they can share the same house they can use each other for warmth by cuddling up together. If the temperature drops below twenty degrees it is best and most humane to invite your dog to stay in your nice warm house with you. Dogs can get very lonely and they love to have your company. A dog can be great company for a human too.

If you didn’t get your dog inside in time and you notice some of your dog’s skin is red, gray, white or black it could be frostbite and that can be very serious. Take your dog to see your Veterinarian as soon as you can. Remember your dog depends on you for all of his care, needs and safety. Your dog depends on you that you will take care of him and make sure that the dog in comfortable. If you take proper care of your dog you will have many rewards from you dog and the dog will be forever greatful.

Get Rid of Fleas in a House

Fleas can drive pets and their owners nuts. They can cause skin problems for animals and the people who love them. Treating the pet is not the end of flea control — it is only the beginning. Once fleas get in the house, you have to treat the entire dwelling. You also must time your efforts correctly, because fleas reproduce rapidly and their eggs are often present in the home long after the adult fleas are killed.

Instructions

1. • 1

     Bathe all pets with a flea shampoo and give them a dose of a systemic pesticide. Remove them from the house for at least eight hours.

   • 2

     Remove all sheets, towels, furniture covers, rugs and curtains from their places. Wash them all in very hot water and detergent. Dry them in a hot dryer and place them in tightly sealed lawn and leaf bags. Send anything that is not washable to the dry cleaners

   • 3

     Place all open food products in the refrigerator. Clean out the cupboards and place all sealed and canned foods into lawn and leaf bags. Remove them from the house. Vacuum inside all cupboards.

   • 4

     Vacuum the house thoroughly several times. Vacuum every room, every closet and all furniture. Change the vacuum bags frequently during the process. Remove filled bags from the vacuum and seal them in a refuse bag and remove the bag from the house.

   • 5

     Mix a citrus oil cleanser into very hot water in a bucket. Scrub all cabinets and drawers with the solution and leave the doors to them open. Scrub all baseboards and walls thoroughly with sponges dipped in the solution. Mop the floor with the solution. Change water frequently to make sure it is always hot.

   • 6

     Open all the interior doors in the house. Close all exterior doors and all windows. Follow the directions to set off flea bombs. This usually involves setting the bombs off in the center of each room and leaving the house for four to six hours without returning. Make sure all pets and people are out of the house before bombing.

   • 7

     Return to the house after the suggested time. Open the windows. Return food to the cupboards and pantries. Replace washed fabrics. Vacuum one more time just in case. Launder all clothing you have been wearing.

 

 

Why Should I Feed My Dog Twice a Day?

The opinions of both experts and dog owners rarely concur when it comes to how often you should feed your dog. Many dog lovers insist once a day will suffice, others that twice a day is the most sensible option and some that the dog should be left to decide for itself depending on its particular needs. However, feeding your dog twice a day does potentially hold benefits that these other methods lack.

How frequently you feed your dog is strongly dependent on the dog’s size and age. Puppies should have more feeding times per day than an adult dog as they are still developing and therefore require a steady supply of nutrients and fiber to keep their bodies developing swiftly and healthily. Adult dogs do not have the same requirements as they are already well developed. Feeding requirements may also differ depending on your dog’s breed. Dobermans,boxers, mastiffs,great danes, for instance, have deep chests and are more likely to require smaller, regular intakes of food than other breeds.

Feeding your dog twice a day can help to keep your dog’s temperament in a calm and subdued state. Just as humans can get agitated and restless if they haven’t eaten for some time, the same is often true of dogs. Keeping your dog on a twice-daily feeding pattern may also benefit its health in the long term as regular feeding will provide insulin to your dog, helping its blood sugar levels stay balanced and its mind and body healthy.

If you feed your dog twice a day, you should try to feed it once in the morning and again in the evening. This will ensure it has a consistent level of fuel to sustain it throughout the day. Dogs thrive on routine and this will help promote regular digestion and in turn help you keep aware of when your dog will need to take a visit outside. You can also try feeding your dog to synchronize with family meal times, which can help the dog bond with your family.

Because the needs of each dog can differ substantially, you may opt to apply a “free-feeding” method rather than feeding your dog twice daily. Free-feeding involves leaving ample food in the dog’s bowl and allowing it to take its fill when desired, ensuring the bowl is topped up when necessary. Free-feeding can help ensure your dog is never lacking in energy and sustenance, but can also be dangerous if the dog cannot find a healthy level of intake and instead indulges in over-eating.

If you choose to feed your dog twice daily, you should also ensure you keep it supplied with clean, healthy water. Drinking plenty of water will help with the dog’s digestion and ensure it stays sufficiently hydrated to deal with the day’s exertions. Avoid feeding your dog any scraps in between its two set meal times, as this will interrupt the regularity of a dog’s eating pattern and leave it foraging for food when it should already have enough fuel to function.

How to Break Up a Dog Fight

I was asked recently from a client this question,

I have read several articles in our local paper about people witnessing a dog fight and wanting to stop the dog fight but did not know how to stop a dog fight. I am impulsive when it comes to these things and it caused me to ask what is the best thing to do when witnessing a dog fight? Is there a way to break up a dog fight? Should I try to stop a dog fight? I love animals and react without thinking about my safety and have stepped in before when I have seen a dog fight – fortunately I did not get hurt. What is your suggestion for what to do when confronted by dog fighting?

This was my response,

First, do not get rid of your instincts. There is no knowledge behind instinctual intelligence so “not thinking” is actually a good thing. In my profession, I only use “thinking” when I have to explain something to the human. With dogs, it’s all about instinct and energy.

Here’s what you need to keep in mind. You can stop a dog fight by observing body language. This is what I do with aggressive cases – stop the bad dog behavior at the very instance you see it about to escalate. But if that’s not possible, during a dog fight, once there is one occurring, stay calm and observe who or which of the two dogs is at a higher level of intensity. That’s the dog I’m going to focus on. Then you need to step in to give that dog the right touch – this means the rib cage area. The reason is that this forces the dog to open his mouth and let go of his hold on the other dog during the dog fight. It’s about timing too, so look for the right moment and then act quickly.

You can use a loud, strong voice or grunt directly at him and pull back from the back of his neck and collar – not from the top, but from the back and pull up, otherwise he can interpret this as you getting into the fight as well, and this is when the dog can turn on the human and bite him because his level of intensity is so high, he doesn’t think “oh, that’s the human.” You’re just another dog in the fight and before you know it, the dog you’re trying to defend is coming after you.

Whether it’s a big dog or little dog, the technique and method is the same. Do not scream repeatedly unless you are calling for help. Sometimes people are not going to help, so don’t expect that everyone will have your ability or good will. Most importantly, be quick, stay mindfully aware, emotionally in tune, and remain calm and assertive.

Ask Me How I Feel About “Flexi” Leashes

Ahhhhhhhhhh, retractable leashes… a hot topic  that inspired me to write down some brief thoughts…As most people who know me know, I HATE flexi-leashes.  This might be the one dog training tool that I absolutely cannot find ANY value in; (even silly ones usually at least have some kind of foundation in a reasonably good idea… for the most part); NOT this one (if you ask me…).

Everything you can do with a retractable leash can be done on a long, fixed line (albeit maybe not as conveniently).  The benefits of convenience, in my opinion, are far outweighed by the potential negative consequences of using of one these bad leashes.  Exhibit A…  (Fear tactic?  Possibly.)The injury in the photo to the right is a pretty typical example of what retractable leashes (cords, maybe more accurate?) can and do cause on a regular basis.  (I will accede to the fact that the argument could be made that the leash didn’t cause the injury; the poor – or complete lack of – training of the dog at the end of it did).  However, when was the last time you saw a well-trained dog walking down the street attached to one of these?  I’m going to venture a guess here & say never.  Been wrong before, but…

Exhibit A:

The reasons I can’t stand these things are as follows:1)     Simple mechanical malfunctions.  I worked at a major corporate-owned PETSTORE for 4 years and I can tell you from experience that these things malfunction.  Often, the mechanism inside breaks (never EVER at a convenient time… speaking of convenience) resulting in the line being continuously let out when you don’t want it to be OR jammed.  When and if the line jams and the contraption is ripped out of your hand, guess what happens?  Your dog was already taking off after something (or it wouldn’t have been yanked out of your hand) and now he has a plastic monster chasing after him.  It is scary to dogs when this happens, and many a canine has ended up on a “Missing” poster over it.

2)     Manners.  I can’t tell you how many times on how many different occasions (at how many different events, to the disillusion of how many people) I have seen someone’s dog 16 feet away from its owner wrapped around a display in a store, peeing on a table at an event, tying up another dog, “THIS CLOSE” to becoming dinner for another dog, in a completely different aisle or on a completely different STREET than the person holding the other end of the leash, jumping up, scratching, lifting their legs, wrapping up an exhibit, pulling down shelving… You see where I’m going with this.  “Manners” is also a nice way of saying this is yet another reason I can’t stand these things.  Safety may be more accurate, which brings me to:

Exhibit B:

Reason #3)    They are dangerous.  Notice the pictures that I have included thus far depict injuries to HUMANS.  Never mind the injuries to unfortunate dogs, including the BYSTANDERS.  I will again accede to the fact that it is probably POSSIBLE to use these things appropriately(?), responsibly, but I am gritting my teach while even typing out that sentence because I have such a bad taste in my mouth for these due to what I have consistently seen over the years.  I cannot recall ever once seeing somebody use one of these things responsibly… and I have seen a LOT of dog/human interactions (ya think? ;).Retractable (extendable… flexi… choose your word) leashes frequently cause injuries up to & including those in Exhibit B, adapted from Flexi’s own website.  (See picture on left.) I can already hear somebody arguing with me in favor of “Flexi” leashes by saying something like, “Well, I could say pit bulls frequently cause injuries up to and including the propaganda photos to my right” which is bullsh*t for many reasons and I will debunk that potential argument in another article. 4)     … and one of the more important reasons in my profession: retractable leashes send mixed (poor) communication signals to the dog.  There is ALWAYS tension on a retractable leash… ALWAYS.  The dog is aware of this, and this can have a SLEW of negative consequences, too innumerable to include all of them in this article, but teaching your dog to walk with tension on the leash  being the least of it.

And Reason #5:    The total lack of control any given owner has on one of these things leads to injuries to other dogs with unusual frequency. Even more so when there are multiple dogs on retractables.All three dogs were on leashes, but both of the attacking dogs were (1) larger  (2) on extendable leashes that were fully extended, leaving their owner with little control over them; (3) too large and strong for their owner to control both of them at the same time to begin with, [reliably on extendable leashes]. The other dogs’ owner should know better.  My friend had taken their dog outside for a poo, and suddenly around the corner  came the neighbor dogs at the ends of their leashes, their owner obviously not paying a great deal of attention to what her dogs might encounter out of her sight, running ahead of her as they were.  Even though she knew her dogs had attacked her dog just a few months’ previous, to the tune of over $300 in veterinary care.  This time was worse (& the vet’s bill reflects it).”

Exhibit C:

I did not actually include in these pictorial’s the injuries inflicted on dogs BY their own “Flexi” leashes.. I have knowledge of these through friends who work at vets’ offices and those injuries include: tail injuries resulting in amputation, lacerations down to the bone, injuries to tendons, torn skin (think inner thighs from leashes going under dogs), eye injuries, burns to the skin, etc.

In conclusion, I’d like to go on record as saying I can’t stand extendable/retractable/Flexi leashes.  I do not believe that they can be used 100% safely for the simple malfunction argument alone.  They do nothing to help in a typical dog’s training because of the constant tension on the collar.  They give the owner extremely limited control… to the potential physical detriment to both human & canine, as evidenced above.  They basically represent a gigantic percentage of what I feel is wrong with dog ownership these days; lack of: control, responsibility, understanding, and training.  Rant concluded.  Love it or hate it, thank you for reading.If you or someone you know have had your mind at all opened to my arguments here and would like assistance with your own dog, please contact us anytime at rrruffhouse.com we are always happy to educate and teach everyone who wants help.

Fear of Nail Cutting

Swimming, particularly in warm water, can help your dog relax and also drain her energy. If you have a small dog, you don’t even need a pool. You can use a small tub of water. Simply hold the dog by the sides and let her paddle. If your dog is uncertain about the water, start by holding her on an incline, just let her bottom half touch the water. Wait until your dog begins to paddle with his front legs, and then you can slowly lower her front half into the water. If the dog begins to splash around and panic, calmly return the dog to the inclined position again – with the back half of the dog touching the water. Then once the dog relaxes and begins paddling with the front legs again, send her back in! Continue this until she becomes comfortable with the water.

Once your dog has reached the lowest level of energy, begin by holding a paw and presenting the nail clipper to it without cutting anything. Then send her right back into the water to drain even more energy. At the same time, you are softening her nails, so they will actually be easier to trim. Then, after another round of swimming, you present the nail clippers again. This time cut a little bit, just to let her experience it and see her reaction. If she panics, send her right back in for more water therapy, but if the dog remains calm, do the whole foot – and then send her back into the water! This way, you’re not giving the dog time to focus on the nail clipping, instead she is focusing on the water. We are exchanging one challenge for another! Your dog can learn to associate the nail trimmings with the time in between swims that she gets to relax and collect herself.

Keep repeating this process – allow your dog to swim, trim the nails, and put her right back in – until you’ve trimmed all four paws.

I encourage you to visualize the scenario going well before attempting it. Don’t panic or feel sorry if your dog is stressed. Instead, make your dog feel safe by maintaining the calm and assertive energy of a pack leader.

Why Do Dogs Chew Their Nails?

Nail chewing and biting is not standard dog behavior and could be a cause for concern, according to Dr. Page Wages at the Oberlin Animal Hospital. Boredom, anxiety, poor grooming, allergies and infections are common causes for the chewing habit, and should be addressed quickly to ease the dog’s distress. Some causes can easily be resolved by a trip to the pet store for allergy sensitive food and toys, while other conditions will require a prescription by a veterinarian.

Allergies

• Food and outdoor allergies can lead to nail biting in dogs. Allergies to grass, pollen and other outdoor items may be irritating the dogs paws and nails. Additives to the dog’s diet may also be causing discomfort, including corn. Chewing the nails is a way dogs relieve their itchy sensation. Allergy sensitive foods, including those without corn, are available at large pet retailers. Veterinarians can provide a prescription to ease the symptoms of outdoor allergies.

Infection

• If a nail is injured, and the wound is exposed, infection may result. If the area around the dog’s nails appears red, swollen, tender to the touch or is seeping, it may be infected. Dogs will chew the area to relieve the pressure and itchy feeling. An antibiotic is required to cure the infection, so a trip to the vet is necessary

Anxiety

• Leaving dogs alone can cause anxiety behaviors for some. Chewing nails, defecating in the house and destructive behavior are common signs of anxiety. Crate or kennel the dog when he will be left alone in the home. Dogs are den animals by nature, and need to feel secure. Consider leaving a radio or TV on so the dog can hear human interaction, and supply him with a few chew toys to ease his need to gnaw.

Boredom

• Stimulating a dog’s senses is essential. Exercise, playtime, talking and training are all essential. A bored dog will become destructive to himself and his surroundings. Nail biting is a common sign of boredom. Supply the pet with interactive play toys when dog or human interaction isn’t possible.

Poor Grooming

• Some dogs chew on their nails simply because they need to be trimmed. Visit the vet’s office, a grooming salon or invest in a dog nail clippers. The nails should be kept trimmed to just above the quick. Have a vet or grooming salon show you how to do this task if you wish to maintain the dog’s nails at home. Overgrown nails lead to cracks, chips and more nail chewing from your dog.