Moving With Your Dog? Here’s How To Help Your Dog Adjust Before, During & After The Move

Jim and Lynnette will be moving into a new house soon. They’ve asked me for some tips to help them get Tenor through the move, with the least amount of stress.

Here are my tips for moving with your dog…

 

Are you moving to a new home and not sure how to get your dog acquainted with the situation?

The biggest mistake I see people make is feeling guilty towards the dog and interpreting the dog’s behavior into human emotions.

First, the feeling guilty part puts you in an unstable emotional mindset from the dog’s point-of-view. The dog does not know guilt as an emotion and does not understand that, so all he perceives is this certain instability.

So whether you are feeling guilty because moving time usually allows less walking time, disrupts the routine of the day, or puts your pet into a new environment, your #1 task is to not feel that way.

Besides, if you are willing to assist your dog into adjusting to the new environment, what is there to feel guilty about?

Would you be willing to give up the point of view that moving is a bad thing for your animal?

What if all your dog cared about was being close to you, no matter where you are?

The first step to a successful move is for you to feel joyful about it all and assist your dog by guiding him through it all.

How To Prepare Your Dog For The Move

During the time of packing up, keep reassuring your dog that he will be coming along.

You can do that by telling him: “We are all moving to a new home together.” Repeat this out loud to him several times over several days. Believe it or not, he will pick up on what you are saying.

Or, you can give that whole message in pictures, or just energetically, whatever works for you! You see, your dog speaks the language of energy — which includes pictures (your expressions) and spoken language (the words you use).

So just talk about what is going to take place, but do NOT use the language and the picture of this: “Don’t worry, you are not going to be left here.” The energy of that says: “Worry, you are going to be left here” (…which is the exact opposite of what you are trying to achieve). Dogs don’t understand the word “don’t”. Instead, they hear and perceive words very literally.

You see, dogs really don’t learn the words of our language at all. You could talk Russian to them, but what they get is the “energy” attached to each word. And the word “don’t” does not have an energy that they can understand. It is not a natural word that makes sense to a dog.

So just try to be fully aware and use language that is clear to your dog at all times. Sometimes that requires a bit of practice!

On the day of the big move, do your dog a favor and take him for a walk. For both of you, removing the energy of anxiety by moving the body will help prepare for the journey.

 

Calming Methods Prior To Air Travel

If your move requires your dog to be on an airplane and it is the first time, you will need to determine if a tranquilizer would help with the travel time. Not all dogs will respond well to the tranquilizer, so try to get a feel from your dog’s own behavior and energy as to whether this is the best option for your dog or not.

Sometimes, the drowsiness created by the medication will actually make a dog more nervous because he is losing control of his body. Be sure to consult with your vet if you are choosing a calming medication for your dog.

You can also use Rescue Remedy, a Bach flower remedy from the health food store. It also works great for your pets! It comes as a liquid that you can apply to your dog’s water, and as a spray that you can spray on your dog’s nose. But only do that if your dog can tolerate liquid sprayed on his face. Some dogs don’t like that at all; we don’t want to put more stress on the situation!

Getting Your Dog Adjusted To The New House

Arriving at your new house is an important time for all of you!

Most people make the mistake of letting the dog figure everything out on his own. If you have the happy-go-lucky kind of a dog, most of this will go with great ease and you might not need all the tools given here, but if your dog is nervous, shy or fearful then it will be imperative for you help him get adjusted.

First, take your dog for a brisk walk before entering the new environment. Please take a half hour for you and your dog and do both of you the favor of introducing yourselves to the new neighborhood with a walk.
It is important to walk your dog in a way that shows your dog that you are walking him and not the other way around. So walk your dog with a loose leash, correcting him if he starts to pull. Allow him to sniff along the way, but only when you decide that it is time to sniff. You don’t want your dog to be in control of the situation and dragging you to the places that he would like to find.

Again, don’t feel guilty, or bad. The dog’s nose is much better than yours, and he can still sniff things simply by walking past them.

So after your half hour walk, go up to your new house and enter it calmly with your dog following you inside (rather than letting your dog lead the way). Keep him on the leash and show him all around the house that way.

Ask everybody to not be excited right now and just show your dog everything there is to see about this new environment. Show him where his place to sleep will be, the food and water place, the crate, etc.

If your dog is quite nervous about all this, the best thing to do is keep him on a leash (tie him to you if you have to) and just take him along — with you in full control and leading the way at all times. Remember, a dog’s fear is greatly reduced if
he feels that you are in control of the situation (rather than him having to figure everything out on his own).

If it does not stress your dog, try confining him to a small area that has his bed in it, or the crate. If your dog is nervous, do not let him run through the house freely. It will not help the nervousness!

In those first few days after moving into a new house, it is important that you lead the way for your dog. This is how he will be able to make the “right” decision about the new living situation. So the calmer you are and the more you are willing to guide your dog, the easier it will be… for you and your dog!

 

 

We can’t save them all. And we shouldn’t.

I want to apologize to the public on the [unofficial] behalf of animal rescuers this National Pet Month.  Normally, we’re a bit nuts about our furry friends, but, as a whole, we know, in the back of our minds (for better or worse), there are no pets without people.

This is a very personal blog  this morning for me as you may have guessed? I work extremely hard every day trying to ” Save the word ” one dog at a time. I find this so damn frustrating that there are so many ” Do gooders ” out there screaming on the top of their lungs and clogging Facebook everyday  trying to  save every, single animal well this is not possible nor should it be! Nature has a way of taking good care of its self if we as humans but out, it’s only when we intervene does it start to get complicated. I read damn near every shout out on Facebook and other sites as well with people criticizing others on what is the ” right ” thing to do and if they loved their animals as much as the person finger-pointing then they need to do what ever it takes to save them! As I do agree that it is important to be responsible for those animals that we have brought into our homes, I also feel that people need to stop judging the masses on what is a very obscured view-point, you have no idea why this person is making the decision they are?

Did they lose their jobs and have children to feed?

Did someone pass away?

Are they about to be homeless themselves?

Did they simply make a bad choice on getting the animal in the first place?

Well it is not for me to judge, I simply am here to give you a possible solution to help everyone in need, not just the animals. I would like to also point out that the people doing the original finger-pointing, and criticizing are the very same people who have come to rrruffhouse for training advice and refused due to the cost! Tisk, tisk on you! You can’t point out everyone elses mistakes and them do what you are condemning them for, you know who you are, and so do I!! I also have seen those same people selling their dogs on kijiji and other sites to rid themselves of the problem and lie about the reason they are rehoming the animal!  You should be ashamed! People in glass houses shouldnt throw stones! I simply ask that we stop! Stop condemning what we do not know or understand, the difference between us who rescue and those who ” wish they could be we do our best to do what is right for all involved and sometimes that means making heart wrenching decisions, so please for all you ” do gooders and wanna be’s ” please just stop! You are making it hard for us to do the right things!  Not all animals can or should be saved.

To all my fellow rescuers!

We’re often called overprotective toward our pets, and we can tend to throw our whole hearts into our work. We know this field can tear you up and spit you out, but every day you see those fluffy faces crying out to be saved, and really, that muddies the waters of sound decision-making. We waffle while figuring out what it means to do the right thing for the animals, and falling into the worry-wart trap of thinking no home is good enough for the dogs and cats we hold dear. But, in the past few weeks, some of us have crossed the line and forgotten that, in our society, people need to come first.

If I had a dollar every time I heard someone lament over the problem of pet overpopulation with the phrase, “I wish we could save them all…,” I would have enough money to buy a private island. And on that island would be a bunch of dogs who really did need a second chance.

Atlas, sadly, would not have made it onto my island.

Atlas, a German Sheppard mix with a demonstrated history of aggression, found himself in an animal shelter and was scheduled to be euthanized. Although Atlas bit a shelter staff person twice, the shelter agreed to adopt  the dog out to a local dog trainer. Sadly, less than two weeks later, in a public park, Atlas seriously attacked the adoptee and two other people before he was fatally shot to death by local police officers. ( not all trainers are equip to train aggressive dogs, it takes specialized training from a behavioural trainer with many, many years of experience.)

Was the chance of life at human cost better than a compassionate, humane death for Atlas? Were the consequences of releasing a dog with a known history of unprovoked aggression truly evaluated? And why are aggressive dogs receiving so much attention from people wanting to save them, when there are thousands of friendly — or at the very least safe and rehabilitate — dogs dying in shelters every day?

Atlas  isn’t the only example.

There is Rocky, a Bully breed mix who first killed a puppy, and then broke the bones in a child’s face, but still had over 60,000 Facebook shares trying to save this dog and get him released from the shelters. Although a judge ordered him to be “defanged:” neutered and sentenced to spend the rest of his life in a rehabilitative sanctuary, the dog is now living in the prison system.

And then there is the 8-month-old black labrador mix who became infamous in last week’s viral video in which a cat stopped a brutal, unprovoked attack towards a young boy on his bicycle.  ( seen on YouTube )The animal shelter in which the dog is being held for rabies observation (prior to euthanize) has had their phone lines flooded with people wanting to adopt the aggressive animal, while friendly pets languish in kennels.

There are a dozen aggressive dogs, at any moment, who have hundreds — or even thousands — of people rallying to save them, while dogs who have committed no such acts are condemned to death because they were simply in the wrong place, at the wrong time, and the shelter kennels were full.

To my fellow rescuers, please stop for a moment and realize: There are so many wonderful, truly rehabilitate dogs in shelters who need that second chance. , who in spite of 936 shares on a volunteer-run Facebook page simply ran out of time at the shelters and paid the ultimate price.

Today, at this very moment in our country, we cannot save them all. There are not enough adoptee’s  for the specific animals available, nor are there the medical resources, the transports from “high-kill” to “low-kill” areas, or the financial means to make that change today. But I do believe, with time, effort, education, and resources we can get much, much closer. And every day we get a little closer.

However, I will always believe public safety needs to come first. When we domesticated dogs tens of thousands of years ago, we took on the responsibility that comes with having animals and people live together. Let’s not forget that responsibility today. Saving should not forego safety.

Why Is It Important to Vaccinate a Dog?

Just like with humans, vaccinations are an important element of the preventative care of your dog. Vaccines protect dogs from a wide variety of diseases and help them to live longer, healthier lives. Veterinarians used to recommend that dogs get vaccinated every year, but recent research shows that some vaccinations last much longer than that and do not need to be re-administered annually. In addition to protecting your dog from illness, vaccines also raise group immunity. Group immunity is the resistance of a population of dogs to a particular pathogen. A high group immunity raises the chances of the eradication of the pathogen from the dog population, and greatly reduces the likelihood that un-vaccinated dogs will be exposed.

Knowing What Vaccinations Your Dog Needs

 

• According to the American Animal Hospital Association, there are two classes of vaccines: core and non-core vaccines. Core vaccines are typically recommended for all dogs because they protect against serious and fatal illnesses that are easily transmitted between animals. Non-core vaccines target less virulent pathogens and are generally recommended for dogs with high-risk lifestyles or immune deficiency.

 

Types

 

• Core vaccines include distemper, parovirus, rabies and adenovirus. Noncore vaccines include kennel cough, leptospirosis and lyme disease, according to the website Vetinfo.

 

Susceptibility Window

 

• A puppy receives a large number of antibodies from his mother. These maternal antibodies can block the action of many vaccines. Because of this, veterinarians often recommend puppies reach at least 6 weeks of age before administering vaccinations, according to PetEducation.com.

 

When Should Puppies Be Vaccinated?

 

• The window of susceptibility can vary from litter to litter, and even from puppy to puppy. For this reason, veterinarians recommend a series of vaccinations in the first year of life, to make sure the puppy is protected from pathogens. Vaccinations are typically given at 6 weeks, with boosters every three weeks until about 16 weeks of age.

 

Vaccination Risk

 

• According to the American Animal Hospital Association, vaccine reactions are extremely rare. Most reactions that do occur are minor and involve local swelling and pain. Sometimes, however, an allergic reaction to the compounds in the vaccine can occur. When this happens, emergency treatment is recommended. As with all medical procedures, the benefits should be weighed against the risks. Statistically, the risk of disease is much greater than the risk of adverse vaccination reactions.

 

How Long Do Distemper Shots for Dogs Last?

Initial Shots

• The initial distemper shot is given to puppies ages six to eight weeks. Another round is given within one to two months.

Duration

• A distemper shot’s long-term effectiveness depends on the dog. Factors such as stress levels, increased exposure to other dogs and the overall health of the dog can have impact on how long each shot protects your dog.

 

Recommendations

 

• Based on testing, vaccine manufacturers say that their vaccines are effective from one to three years.

 

Testing

 

• The best method to know if your dog needs another shot is through testing by the veterinarian. This testing is called titing and involves blood samples being drawn to determine the level of vaccine in the dog.

 

Precaution

 

• If you are unsure of when your dog had his last distemper shot, you should have your veterinarian conduct a blood test. The first symptoms of distemper resemble those of a severe cold.

How Long Do Rabies Vaccinations Last in Dogs?

 

Facts about rabies and rabies vaccine

Rabies is a virus that attacks the brain and nervous systems of mammals. It can be contracted at any time of the year by an animal of any age, and is always fatal. A rabies vaccination does not in itself prevent rabies; it instead causes the dog’s body to mount an immune response. The antibodies the body produces during the immune response prevent rabies; the immune response is so rapid that your dog will be protected 14 days after the vaccination. Rabies vaccinations, if given correctly, are 100% effective and will work in dogs exposed to rabies as long as the rabies is still in a latent (incubation) period.

When do you vaccinate your dog?

Rabies shots can be given at any time of the year and are typically administered with the annual booster shots. The frequency of vaccination depends on your local and state governments. Most rabies vaccinations are licensed for two or three years, depending on the company. Rabies vaccinations given for the first time to puppies and dogs are only licensed for one year. Giving a second rabies shot a year later allows your dog to mount a more effective antibody response to the virus. The second shot, depending on where you live, will be valid for two or three years. Areas where rabies is prevalent in the local wildlife may require dogs to be given a rabies vaccination by a licensed veterinarian every year.

Getting your dog vaccinated.

Puppies get their first rabies vaccinations when they are between 9 and 16 weeks old. Earlier than 12 weeks, the vaccination may not be effective, as the puppy still has its mother’s antibodies (which provide protection from disease) in his body. Adult dogs can receive a rabies vaccination at any time during their life, even while pregnant, as long as they are in good health. Veterinarians may decide to delay vaccinations in sick or underweight dogs. Depending on where you live, your dog’s rabies vaccination will need to be administered by a licensed veterinarian every year, every two years or every three years. Having the vaccination administered by a licensed veterinarian is the only way to get a certificate of vaccination. Without the certificate you may not be able to take your dog to a groomer, board him or participate in shows or events. If you dog bites someone and you do not have a current rabies certificate, you could face fines as well as having your dog impounded and possibly euthanized.

Transmission of rabies and rabies symptoms

Rabies is transmitted only by saliva and must be ingested or absorbed into the body through bites, cuts or scrapes. Only rabid animals can transmit rabies. It can take 60 days before your dog begins to show symptoms of rabies. Remember, only unvaccinated dogs can get rabies. Rabies goes through four phases, starting with the latent phase during which it is still possible to successfully vaccinate your dog. Each phase after the latent period will last four to five days. In the second phase your dog will show behavior changes, and may stop eating and drinking. In the third phase your dog may have some paralysis and an inability to swallow, and may become vicious or lethargic. The fourth phase will be complete paralysis and death. Once your dog starts to show signs of rabies, death is inevitable.

How to Tell If Your Dog Has Food Allergies

A wide variety of commercially-prepared dog foods are on the market, with a myriad of ingredients listed on the packaging. If your dog seems to be reacting to an ingredient in the food, you can look for telltale symptoms of food allergy. It can be baffling to try to decipher just what is causing Fido to act so distressed. A remedy is a priority, as we love our pets and hate to see them in discomfort.

Instructions

1. • Observe your dog’s behavior and skin. Take note of the age your dog begins to have symptoms. Notice if your pet is constantly scratching himself on the face, rubbing its ears or chewing feverishly on its feet or forelegs. Watch to see if it is straining to reach this area to scratch, or to scoot on the carpet to alleviate the itch.

   • Look for symptoms relating to intense inner ear itching, such as head-shaking, excessive scratching or sores or hot spots. Check the external ear flap to see if it is red and inflamed from rubbing against carpet or rugs to scratch the itch. Observe the ear for yeast.

   • Note your pet’s response to any antibiotic course of treatment for infection. Tell your vet if your dog’s symptoms have been alleviated with the antibiotics. Pay careful attention to the stop date of the medication, and note if the symptoms return after the treatment has been stopped.

   • Pay attention to the frequency of your dog’s bowel movements. Note if they have increased to three or more per day, indicating possible food allergic reaction. Be on the alert for additional digestive issues such as vomiting.

   • Watch your calendar. Be attentive as to the time of year your dog suffers from skin-related symptoms, noting if the skin symptoms are year-round or just in the winter, which could be related to seasonal dryness.

   • Place your dog on an elimination diet. Carefully check every ingredient of the food you are feeding that could be causing a reaction. Take note of the items that may be causing the allergy symptoms. Remove the suspect ingredients from the dog’s diet and note if the symptoms are decreased or eliminated. Seek a different food that does not have the same ingredients. Repeat this process until symptoms disappear.

   • Give your new diet at least three months. Carefully note any improvement.

     Tips & Warnings

     • Take your pet to the vet if you suspect it is sick or to identify other issues that may not be food allergy-related. Many other diseases and problems can cause similar symptoms as food allergies.

 

rrruffhouse

A wide variety of commercially-prepared dog foods are on the market, with a myriad of ingredients listed on the packaging. If your dog seems to be reacting to an ingredient in the food, you can look for telltale symptoms of food allergy. It can be baffling to try to decipher just what is causing Fido to act so distressed. A remedy is a priority, as we love our pets and hate to see them in discomfort.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_6150368_tell-dog-food-allergies.html#ixzz2cdTdismn

Instructions

1. • Observe your dog’s behavior and skin. Take note of the age your dog begins to have symptoms. Notice if your pet is constantly scratching himself on the face, rubbing its ears or chewing feverishly on its feet or forelegs. Watch to see if it is straining to reach this area to scratch, or to scoot on the carpet to alleviate the itch.

   • Look for symptoms relating to intense inner ear…

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How Old Before Puppies Can Start Eating Soft Food?

Puppies begin their lives drinking mom’s milk, and following that up with a proper and nutritionally balanced diet might seem like quite the tall order, particularly if you’ve never done so before. During and after the weaning process, the diet planning ball is in your court.

 

 

Nursing

Newborn puppies are meant to only consume their mother dog’s milk. At this point, as a caretaker there is absolutely no need for you to feed puppies anything, whether soft or dry foods. The mother dog’s milk offers puppies everything they need in order to be healthy and hardy. The sole exception is when a mother dog is absent or unable to nurse. In those situations, consult your vet. You can bottle-feed puppies using a commercial milk replacer and puppy formula.

Weaning

A mother doggie generally begins to dissuade her young ones from exclusive nursing when they reach around 3 to 4 weeks of age. Although the mother will not stop nursing cold turkey at this point, she’ll usually do so much less frequently. The entire process usually takes a little over a month or so, with many puppies not being completely weaned until they’re about 8 weeks old. However, puppies can begin eating soft-textured foods as soon as weaning begins — think 3 weeks old, for instance.

Gruel

When puppies just start the weaning process, the texture and chewing requirement of hard kibble may be quite a shock at first. Remember, the fluff balls have experience consuming only mama’s milk at this point. The ASPCA recommends feeding the youngsters dry puppy food that is spoon-mixed into warm water. Instead of water, puppy milk replacer in liquid form works just fine. If you mix water or puppy formula with dry food, the meal will take on a soft, smooth, thick and gruel-like feel — a lot easier for puppies to manage. As soon as you notice the puppies adapting well to the soft gruel, slowly introduce canned food and dry food that isn’t mixed in with anything else. Once puppies are near the end of weaning, they should be fully ready to eat foods that aren’t soft.

Puppy Food

When you begin feeding puppies solid foods in earnest, whether soft or hard, remember that the little ones have very specific nutritional requirements that are totally different than those of adult doggies. The ASPCA notes that puppies need roughly two times as much energy intake as full-grown dogs. It’s crucial to allow puppies to eat only foods that are labeled as being solely for puppy consumption, whether wet or dry. Puppy foods have the correct levels of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals and vitamins for wee pooches.

New program to reward dog owners who adopt

New program to reward dog owners who adopt– Image 1

Submitted

Dog trainer and behavioural specialist Grace Bryson is looking to start a new program in Belleville to help reduce the number of dogs that are put up for adoption.

Belleville News

By Steve Jessel

Every day in Canada, dogs are given up for adoption. Some are too loud, some are not friendly enough, some are too active, and others have behavioural issues stemming from a lack of training. The problem is that humane societies across the country are massively overloaded with animals, and even in Belleville, the Quinte Humane Society is almost always full to the brim with abandoned pets.

“What’s happening, is people give up on these dogs,” said Grace Bryson, a dog trainer and rehabilitator of almost 24 years. “The dogs are either recycled constantly through the Humane Society or they’re dropped off on the side of the road or who knows, there’s some pretty horrific stories out there.”

Bryson is trying to start a new program in Belleville to help people adopt dogs from Humane Societies, and limit the number of animals that need to be put down because they can’t find a home. It’s called the Rrruff Start Project, and it would see prospective owners sign a pledge sheet committing to caring for the animal for life when adopting a less desirable or “unadoptable” dog from a local Humane Society or rescue. In return, the program offers a host of incentives and discounted services for the animal, ranging from discounted food, vet bills and training to a donated starter kit filled with essentials like bowls, collars, leashes, toys, food and blankets.

“I’m basically going to give you zero reasons why you would have to give up on this dog,” Bryson said.

Bryson has nine dogs of her own, many of them classified as unadoptable or high-risk. These are the types of animals that are commonly crowded into shelters by the dozens, and once they’ve been given up, Bryson said many people turn around and buy themselves a new puppy for a companion. “Everyone is going to adopt a puppy of some sort, because puppies are cute,” she said. “But then again when they are six, seven or eight months old and they’re beginning to have issues, where do they go? They go back to the Humane Society, and the owners go and get themselves a new puppy.”

Once an animal has been surrendered to a Humane Society, their chances of being adopted are slim at best. At some kill shelters Bryson said dogs are only given up to 72 hours to be adopted, and if they’re a large breed or of a certain colouring, sometimes even less. The adoption process also works against the dog, as animals in a shelter are often confused and scared and act out because of it, leading to families passing them by in favour of a “blank slate” puppy.

“The problem is (the vast majority) of the blank slate puppies are coming from people who did not do anything in the way of pre-natal care, research, breed or anything,” she said. “If you doubt me, go browse the Kijiji of any country, any city, any province, and they are just stocked full of dogs that are ‘free to a good home’.”

Puppies that come from unlicensed breeders such as puppy mills, stud farms or backyard breeders can often run into health issues in later life, as these breeders don’t take the necessary steps to ensure the animals’ health early in life. Improper mixing of breeds can also lead to a litany of health issues for the animal later in life.

“Half of the people don’t even realize where their puppy is coming from,” Bryson said. “We are never going to get these dogs out of these Humane Societies unless we stop all these backyard breeders and puppy mills. I realize that I’m climbing a massive mountain, but if we can’t stop the demand they’re never going to stop breeding these puppies.

“These puppies that are being chucked away are paying the ultimate price for (their owners) selfish greed.”

In order to get the Rrruff program off the ground, Bryson is looking for donations and volunteers. Her goal is to build 500 of the starter kits for new dog owners, but she needs the goods to fill them and people to help build them. She’s starting her fundraising by asking for a just $2 donation, or the average cost of a cup of coffee.

“I don’t have the ability to ask any one entity for thousands and thousands of dollars, because no one is going to give it to me,” she said. “But if I can get thousands of people to each give me a toonie, well how fast that toonie pile will grow.”

To get involved with the program or to make a donation, visit the Rrruff Start Project website atwww.rrruffhouse.com.

How to Choose Healthy Dog Food

 

Have you ever scanned the ingredients in a commercial dog food and thought, “How can this be healthy?” Some may think most pet foods available in stores today are processed and full of preservatives, they are not any better for our dogs than potato chips are for humans. However, unlike potato chips, pet food must prove it can provide all the nutrients needed by the dog, cat, puppy, or kitten before it is sold. So before your dog takes another bite, read these tips on how to find the healthiest food for your beloved dog.

I have written out some raw food recipes if your interested after reading this, follow the link for the recipes. http://rrruffhouse.com/2014/01/23/raw-dog-food-recipes/

Understand that arguably, the best ratios for a healthy dog’s diet are about 50% meat, 50% vegetables, grain-free, wheat-free, and no cheap fillers.Choose pet food close to this ingredient ratio. However, this information is not available from the regulated part of the label, for example, guaranteed analysis or ingredient list.
Ensure protein sources are high in the ingredient list. The meal is the pre-cooked meat, which ensures that it will not reduce anymore during the cooking process. (It takes 5 pounds of the animal meat to make one pound of the animal meal.) You could look for three of the first five ingredients listed on the label as a form of protein such as chicken meal, lamb meal, venison meal.

Dog Food No No’s:

Grains can be a long-term source of energy and energy storage for dogs, but they can also be used as a cheap filler to boost the food’s protein percentage.Watch out! Any grain you feed your dog should be used in whole form so that it supplies more fiber, vitamins, and minerals. The best grains for dogs (when used in the proper percentages) are rolled oats, barley, quinoa, millet, and brown rice.

Often, low quality dog foods will list a meat ingredient first, which will be followed by several by-products and fillers. In this case, although meat is listed first, there are more fillers, which changes the ratio noted above.

Think twice before making your dog go vegetarian. Dogs need protein. Would a dog naturally be vegetarian? No. Most veterinarians and practitioners agree that although a dog can survive on a vegetarian diet, they may not thrive on it.
Be aware that while preservatives may be necessary to keep the food edible, preservatives do not have to be artificial chemicals that might be cancer-causing agents. Avoid pet foods that use chemical preservatives BHA, BHT and Ethoxyquin. Vitamin E and vitamin C are great preservatives that are much better for your dog.
Choose Premium Brand dog foods instead of Economy Brand dog foods. The cheapest ingredients are rarely the healthiest ones.

Go holistic. Holistic foods are 100% natural and 100% nutritious. They contain human-grade ingredients.

Look at a healthy human’s diet. If you would not eat it, your dog probably should not eat it either, such as animal fat and added salt or sugar. However, there are ingredients, such as chocolate, grapes, raisins, white flour and onions that are not good for your dog. Do not make the mistake of thinking all human food is appropriate for your canine. Canine and human nutritional needs and likes differ, for example, what is appropriate and appealing for your dog may not be something you care to eat. In addition, some ingredients considered undesirable by US consumers enjoyed by humans in other cultures.

TIPS:

• A good way to see if your dog’s diet is suitable is to check how it comes out the other end. No, you do not have to get too close to it, but as you pick it up in your poop scoop or bag, check it for consistency and general appearance. A healthy dog’s output should be firm and without any traces of blood or mucus.
• If you want to know what is in your dog’s food, try making your own dog food. There are plenty of recipes and meal plans available online, but beware. Research what you are doing. Consult with your veterinarian to sketch a well-balanced diet. A helpful book is “The Whole Pet Diet” by Andi Brown, and she gives some good recipes. If you would rather save time and pay more for the same foods, she also produces Halo Spot’s Stew, which is her homemade recipe canned.
• Find the best food in your budget window. Use what you have learned about ingredient labels to make the best decision.
• When changing your dog’s food it is important to switch gradually, as it is easier on the dog’s digestive system, and reactions to the new food will be less severe. It is recommended that you gradually increase the new food in the following sequence: 1/7, 1/3, 1/1, 3/1, 7/1, and 1. Calculate this new portion of new food to old food (first change: 8 cups of food with one cup of new food with 7 cups of old food). Each change should be gradual with several days (5 days to a week is best) between changes. It should take a month or more. Even a 4-day transition can help avoid digestive upsets.
• Often, you will find what seems to be a good dog food in almost every aspect, but it has too much grain. To help balance the ratios, try a grain-free canned dog food to supplement your dry food with. Dogs love canned food mixed with their food.
• Every dog, like every human, has different nutritional requirements. It is important you check with your veterinarian to decide what foods best meet your pet’s needs.
• Raw food diet is often found the most favorable for dogs’ health. You can find meaty bones in the stores or order online. In addition, dogs could eat some vegetables or fruits (tomatoes, carrots, apples, etc.). Provide vitamins as supplements.
• My top 5 food picks and where to buy them

  My top number one choice  is a brand called ACANA  here is their website for you to research http://www.acana.com/products/

  I personally use this product to feed some of my dogs who have skin and food issues, (bulldogs, boxers) I recommend the ACANA PACIFICA it is an all fish diet ( stinks but worth the bad smell ) it is  60% fish, 40% fruits and vegetables. That’s it!!! no  soy, bad fillers, unwanted dyes or chemicals and best of all CANADIAN! This will cost you anywhere from$60-$80 depending of the flavor you choose. This is sold at Global Pet Foods

  My number two pick  is PRO PLAN by Purina,  http://www.purina.ca/products/dogs/pro-plan/default.aspx  don’t wig out over the fact it is made bu Purina, it has come a long way since the old school Purina products, the pro plan series is real chicken or lamb when you by the shredded meat bag. This can be found in most pet stores likePetsmart and will cost between $40-$60 depending on size of bag and again flavour.

  My number three pick is  CANIDAE  http://www.canidae.com/cost-to-feed-canidae/index.html?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=bing1  This can be ordered on-line and in some specialty dog food stores in the bigger cities, prices on this food varies so you will have to research the site I gave you and decide from there.

  My number four pick is THE GREAT CANADIAN DOG FOOD  http://www.thegreatcanadiandogfood.ca/  I also personally use this one to feed the other half of my dogs who don’t have and food or skin issues, I have been using this brand for just about a year now and have had great success with it so far. I have had zero issues with any of my dogs or the other dogs in for daycare or boarding eating this food, they LOVE it! It can be found in most equine stores for example here,THRASHERS FEED  it is about $40 per bag for an 18kg bag.

  MY NUMBER FIVE PICK  is  NUTRIENCE  http://www.nutrience.com/ This again is a fair commercial food found in most pet stores, I personally have never used it with my pack but I know people who have and rate it a 6 out of 10, it is about $40-$70 per bad depending again on flavor and size of bag.

   

  The opinions about the foods are just that MY OPINIONS you decide what you like if anything, and make your own choice. Seek a vet if your really unsure about what to feed and how much to feed. I hope this helps some of you in making good choices for feeding your dog.

PLEASE LET ME CLARIFY THE RRRUFFSTART PROGRAM

 

There seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding of what it is I am trying to accomplish so let me take this moment to clarify! The rrruffstart program is designed to help both people and the dog on  how to come together and bond, and educate you on your new rescue. The rrruffstart program is designed to be started BEFORE you get your rescue, it is designed to educate you on the needs of owning a rescue or “a dog with baggage” it is also designed to help you choose the right dog for you and your families needs for example; if you like to run marathons the a bulldog is not the right choice, if you are a stay at home and kinda lazy then a Sheppard is not the right breed for you! This is where one way the rrruffstart program can help, I will help you choose the right dog, also I will explain the proper bonding techniques you need to truly help the rescued dog acclimate to his new home. I will also help you in training, not just obedient training but behavioral raining which is way more important for the bonding process! rrruffstart program want to start you and the dog off to a great start even before you choose your new family member!

If you have already chosen your new rescue and have found yourself in some hot water and feeling like you have bitten off more than you can chew, rrruffstart is here to help! We will help you, help your new dog. I will show you how to stop the  “If you had seen where he came from!” syndrome! Feeling bad for your rescue due to his past will never allow you and your dog to go forward! It’s over! He is no longer being tormented, abused, mistreated, left out in the cold, so lets move forward and rehabilitate both of you so you can find success.

Rrruffstart is solely designed to educate the public. I want to teach the public that ANYONE can design a good-looking website so sell dogs on and get clip art of awards and medals to post on that site. Kijiji is also a big dog selling site and as there may be a few legitimate breeders on there I want you guys to know the difference and what to look for! A real good backyard breeding for profit breeder and some puppy mills look like legitimate kennels. Those guys will invite you in to a designated place on the property where they have designed to look “the part” and they are banking on YOU falling in love with their puppies that you lose your minds and forget to ask the important questions and you stop looking for signs because the “puppy is so damn cute” and as soon as they hear “do you wanna come home with me?” They gotcha! You have now been caught in the puppy trap of cuteness! What you missed was all the warning signs letting you know that they are shady, and it worked! He has gotten you to buy the puppy and lose your senses! That is again where the rrruffstart program can into play!

Let me educate you so you can spot these con artists! Trust me when I tell you, they are hard to spot and they are also very local. They make on average over $200,000.00 a year on profit breeding and other than the basic needs being met like food and shelter $0.00 is going towards those animals! This I can promise you, I have seen them with my own two eyes! They spend a lot of money on smoke and mirrors to deceive the general public and are very successful at it if you don’t know what questions to ask or things to look for!

I am not attacking any of the breeders who are following the guidelines and truly have the dogs best interest and welfare in mind and who stand behind their dogs! I am actually in your corner and in a round about way are on the same side! I am simply trying to stop the need to buy puppies from the “bad guys” if the need to purchase from them goes away, then the need to breed them goes away too! If we stop the puppy for profit demand then the health and welfare of these animals improves! It has too! It’s the supply and demand logic! Every time you adopt from a rescue, shelter, foster home you shut down the demand ONE DOG AT A TIME! That’s all we are trying to do with the rrruffstart program! We want to educate the public on all aspects of rescuing these dogs and help in every way possible so that the dog you rescue NEVER returns to the system!

We cannot do this on our own, This is where you come in! We need donations!! we need money, product, services, people,time, we need help in any and all ways! I am currently working with a few companies locally who are willing to donate services such as: local vets who will sign the rrruffstart pledge to offer veterinary care at a discounted rate for the dogs in the program to help offset the cost’s of keeping these dogs. I have a company that will offer dog walking services and babysitting at a discount to again help offset your cost’s. I recently became a dog food distributor so I can help you feed these dogs a very healthy diet without having to remortgage your houses! I can sell it to you at COST! I personally will be offering support by email and phone for free to help answer any questions or concerns you ay have that are non emergencies, I also ill be offering my training and boarding services at a discounted price to again offset the costs of these guys and giving the new owners ZERO reason to give up!

Rrruffstart is in the very beginning stages of the program and we have a lot to do before it is fully up and running! The more help and donations we receive the faster it will be up and running! The animals are in crisis and we humans put them there so now it’s up to we humans to do all we can! I am doing all I can to play my part in rehabilitating and re-homing some great animals are you willing to do your part?

If you look at the very top of this website you will see the rrruffstart tab where it gives you many options to donate! No amount is too small and every penny counts! Thank you in advance for your support!

 

 

LETS RAISE SOME MONEY

When a dog is dropped off at the humane society it basically has 72 hours to be adopted out or euthanized.  If the dog is large, if it is a dark colour, if there is no information on the dog, then it pretty much has no hope at all.

Rrruffhouse is challenging everyone to accept the Toonie Challenge.So how does the toonie challenge work?  Well, maybe you could give up that coffee for one day, or maybe cut back a couple of cigarettes for one day.  Do you really need that pop today?  A toonie isn’t much to most people but it is literally life and death to a dog! If you want to give more, that’s fine too! But at least part with a toonie and share this message with others to spread the word.

Where will your donation go? ‘Welcome home’ kits will be made and ready for distribution to new dog owners that choose to rescue a dog as opposed to getting one from the breeders.The welcome kits will provide discounted vet services, free email and telephone assistance, training at a discounted rate as well as a collar, leash, bowls, etc. everything a dog owner needs when bringing home a new dog.These kits will be made available to all adopting owners who participate in the Rrruff Start Project and sign the Rrruff Start Pledge Form.

We are asking for everyone’s help, we realize that no one person or company is going to donate a large sum of money but think about it for a min, if 10,000 people all donated nothing more than a toonie imagine how many lives we would save! I always here people say what great work we are doing and they wish they could help, well here is your chance! It wont take much of your time, it wont cost a fortune, you don’t have to put in hours of labor, all you need to do is donate what you can afford and pass this one so others can do the same!

How do you donate you may be asking? Here is what you do! send an email transfer to grace@rrruffhouse.com with the pass word ” friday ”  THAT”S IT!   Your done! It’s that simple, so please donate today and pass this message on through email, facebook, linked in, how ever you can!

RRRUFF START PROGRAM

RRRUFF START PROJECT

JOIN ME IN STOPPING IRRESPONSIBLE BREEDING AND SELLING OF DOGS

My name is Grace Bryson. I am a dog trainer, specializing in dogs with behavioural issues, and the owner of rrruffhouse in Belleville, Ontario.

I would like to tell you about RRRUFF START – an incentive program to encourage people to rescue dogs or puppies versus buying puppies from unlicensed breeders. I am looking for help to get this project up and off the ground. I am building 500 ‘welcome wagon’ kits for the year 2014 to be given away to people who rescue a puppy or an older dog of any breed.

I have volunteers ready to build ‘welcome kits’ but am short on supplies for these kits. I need to get the word out not only about the incentive program, but also about donations.

I need donations of the following items:

• Bowls
• Collars
• Leashes
• ID tags
• Food
• Treats
• Blankets
• Toys
• Cash donations are also accepted so we can source products and purchase what is needed

Along with the kit, the new owner will receive a list of all vets and support people in their area and information on the breed they have chosen and the training it will need.

The new owner will be required to sign a RRRUFF START pledge form stating that they will commit to care for this animal for the life of the animal. Rrruffhouse will offer free email and phone support at any time, for any reason to help support them in providing a forever home.

Thank you cards will be in each kit letting people know who helped make this happen so they realize it does take a village to raise a dog!

If we don’t stop the demand for puppies
we will never shut down the breeders for profit

In the past two decades somehow we have turned into a disposable society and for the most part do not take pride in anything, and as soon as something gets hard we quit. This is a pandemic not only in our children but also our dogs. There are more than 1000 back yard breeders, puppy mills, and stud farms, and people breeding dogs for profit in any given town, city or municipality, if you doubt me please go check out sites like Kijiji in any town across Canada and you will see an on slot of puppies for sale, and dogs to give away to a good home. And the sad part is that most people will give the dog away to the first person who shows up with no regards to the dogs wellbeing or safety, having no idea what happens to the dog.

Please let me inform you where 85% of those dogs go, some go to these puppy mills, back yard breeders and stud farms depending on the breed, some go homes on a whim and later are put to the local shelters as “strays” this is almost a guaranteed death sentence and some get passed around like a poker chip. The percentage of dogs that go to good homes and stay in those homes for their entire life is less than 10%!

As long as there is a demand for these puppies of any breed we will never be able to stop the over breeding and overcrowding of shelters, pounds and rescues. We need the public to really understand why it’s better to rescue a dog that already exist rather than make new ones to be discarded later. I know of what I am speaking of because I have been trying to rehome, retrain, rehabilitate, and reward these dogs for over 24 years and I am happy to say on one front I am doing well, but on the rehoming and rescuing I am failing miserably and not for lack of trying.

These poor dogs that get put down every day because of humans being selfish and not following through on their commitment to keep and love these dogs that THEY bought, sold, bred, gave away, dumped and worse abuse is breaking my heart. I am but one person, but I have the heart and passion of an army and it is what has brought me to this point.

Please feel free to check me out on my website at rrruffhouse.com and let’s partner in making change. Our animals are the victims of human greed with no voice, help me speak for them.

 

Thank you in advance

Grace Bryson