Why Do Dogs Push Their Food Bowls Around?

Dog owners have a way – sometimes within DAYS of first becoming dog owners – of becoming EXPERTS on animal behavior. It blows my mind. These are people who observe their animals displaying interesting or curious behaviors and make up things like “dogs like being put in tiny cages, actually, because of when their ancestors were pack animals and lived in caves.”

That said, a reader sent me an email inquiring about a particular behavior that she has observed in her lab. This reader is not one of the above-described self-proclaimed experts. This reader is generally awesome.
She writes:

My dog is pushing around her food, her food dish, or anything in the area. She noses it around every time before she eats, sometimes for a significant period of time. This video is of her pushing the towel under the dish around (which I put there to stop her from pushing the dish entirely across the tile floor and spilling food everyone). Sometimes she noses the food around and doesn’t even bother to eat any. What is this all about?

One day she decided to set up a spycam so she could catch her dog in the act. She sent me the video and permitted me to upload it for the world to see:

It turns out that this behavior appears fairly common, and inquiries abound online in various forums and whatnot. Enter the self-proclaimed experts. One offers;

Many dogs push their food bowls around; it might be vestigial to the dog’s foraging instinct. Many dogs also pick food out of the bowl and carry it to another location to eat it.

Another suggests;

Depending on the breed of your dog, and dominance level, it’s food looks rather bleak. Meaning that it’s looking for something more alive; this would be the hunter in them call out. Ever wonder why dogs love a good squeaker? It’s because it resembles a dying animal.

Here’s a selection of other gems,

Maybe try switching food brands

Maybe, just maybe, she doesn’t like the shape of the bowl it may be not the most convenient shape for her to eat out of. Having just a dog brain she doesn’t know it is a permanent shape. But more than likely it is just an inherited behavior left over from before dogs trained humans to be pet owners. Back then the dog (or dawg, or even dogg, spelling having not been domesticated yet) ate things it killed or found already dead. Sometimes the prey might not be dead yet and might try to bite back so Dog would need to check and one way to check was just give it a push and see if it moved.

I think they want you to pay some attention to them….They can’t speak so we have to listen to them without hearing words…If I were a dog pushing my bowls around I would be saying..I am bored..I am lonely eating alone every night, no one validating me…I am tired of this same ole’ crap all the time…

He’s trying to get on your nerves, or he wants attention. Both ways are the same. Your dog and my dog know that once he does something bad, he’ll get your attention and you might scream at him or maybe slap his nose for him to stop, but he/she thinks it’s fun.

I think perhaps they feel they are “hunting” the food and then eat it.

If I was going to make up a hypothesis, I might conjecture that pushing food around with the nose will indicate if the food is beginning to rot, as bugs and other critters that munch on dead flesh tend to be found underneath the food item.
Time for some actual research.
How about first we knock down all those lay explanations:

In wild animals, food selection begins with foraging (or hunting, for carnivores) behavior, and ends with food consumption. Through domestication, however, hunting behavior in dogs seems to have been genetically modified if not entirely eradicated. Some evidence that this is so comes from studies of “village” or feral dogs. These are dogs that generally survive by scavenging, raising the possibility that domesticated dogs have not maintained a fully functional repertoire of hunting behaviors. It should be noted, however, that not much is known about how wolves decide what is palatable (e.g. appearance, odor, texture, flavor), so it is hard to determine if dogs’ preferences in that respect have changed in domestication. So it is unlikely that any food-related behavior you observe in a domesticated dog is “leftover” from their wolf ancestors. Possible, but unlikely.
Then, I asked this reader a few questions: are there other dogs in the house? Yes, a male dog. Does she generally feed the dog the same food every day? Yes.

I could not find anything in the literature directly addressing this issue. Here are some things we do know about food selection in domesticated dogs, and my best guess as to the explanation of this particular dog’s behavior:
(1) It is certain that odor plays a strong role in food selection, because anosmic dogs (who can’t smell) show reduced discrimination between types of meat that are otherwise highly discriminable.
(2) Dogs combine olfactory information (smell) with social information to select what type of food they want. In one study, dogs preferred eating something that smelled like the breath of another dog who had recently been fed.
I wonder if perhaps Shug (white poodle) smelled something on the other dog’s breath, and was looking for it. This reader insisted that the two dogs are fed the same foods. It is possible that there is some odor produced by the interaction of the other dog’s saliva and the food that Shug was trying to find in her food bowl.
One other bit of info that I stumbled across concerns liberality in dogs. Laterality is an observable measure of functional asymmetry in the brain. The human brain, for example, is strongly left-lateralized for language. This means that much of language processing occurs on the left side of the brain. Human handedness (whether you favor your right or left hand) has to do with laterality as well. Human handedness may be a topic for another day – this day, we shall focus on dog paw-edness. Do dogs favor one paw over the other?

So the answer is yes, and is actually related to their sex. Females tend to prefer the right paw, and males tend to prefer the left paw. What is most interesting to me is that task #3 was a food retrieval task.
I am well aware that I might be reaching here and over-interpreting – but I wonder if perhaps Shug, if she is right-pawed like most other female dogs, is simply trying to move the food away from the wall. Kind of like, if you’re at a restaurant, and you’re right handed, it totally sucks to be the guy at the end of the booth with your right hand against the wall.
So, there you have it. Both may be stretching it a little, but you’ve got two workable hypotheses that are totally testable.

Why Do Dogs Push Their Food Bowls Around?

Dog owners have a way – sometimes within DAYS of first becoming dog owners – of becoming EXPERTS on animal behavior. It blows my mind. These are people who observe their animals displaying interesting or curious behaviors and make up things like “dogs like being put in tiny cages, actually, because of when their ancestors were pack animals and lived in caves.”

That said, a reader sent me an email inquiring about a particular behavior that she has observed in her lab. This reader is not one of the above-described self-proclaimed experts. This reader is generally awesome.
She writes:

My dog is pushing around her food, her food dish, or anything in the area. She noses it around every time before she eats, sometimes for a significant period of time. This video is of her pushing the towel under the dish around (which I put there to stop her from pushing the dish entirely across the tile floor and spilling food everyone). Sometimes she noses the food around and doesn’t even bother to eat any. What is this all about?

One day she decided to set up a spycam so she could catch her dog in the act. She sent me the video and permitted me to upload it for the world to see:

It turns out that this behavior appears fairly common, and inquiries abound online in various forums and whatnot. Enter the self-proclaimed experts. One offers;

Many dogs push their food bowls around; it might be vestigial to the dog’s foraging instinct. Many dogs also pick food out of the bowl and carry it to another location to eat it.

Another suggests;

Depending on the breed of your dog, and dominance level, it’s food looks rather bleak. Meaning that it’s looking for something more alive; this would be the hunter in them call out. Ever wonder why dogs love a good squeaker? It’s because it resembles a dying animal.

Here’s a selection of other gems,

Maybe try switching food brands

Maybe, just maybe, she doesn’t like the shape of the bowl it may be not the most convenient shape for her to eat out of. Having just a dog brain she doesn’t know it is a permanent shape. But more than likely it is just an inherited behavior left over from before dogs trained humans to be pet owners. Back then the dog (or dawg, or even dogg, spelling having not been domesticated yet) ate things it killed or found already dead. Sometimes the prey might not be dead yet and might try to bite back so Dog would need to check and one way to check was just give it a push and see if it moved.

I think they want you to pay some attention to them….They can’t speak so we have to listen to them without hearing words…If I were a dog pushing my bowls around I would be saying..I am bored..I am lonely eating alone every night, no one validating me…I am tired of this same ole’ crap all the time…

He’s trying to get on your nerves, or he wants attention. Both ways are the same. Your dog and my dog know that once he does something bad, he’ll get your attention and you might scream at him or maybe slap his nose for him to stop, but he/she thinks it’s fun.

I think perhaps they feel they are “hunting” the food and then eat it.

If I was going to make up a hypothesis, I might conjecture that pushing food around with the nose will indicate if the food is beginning to rot, as bugs and other critters that munch on dead flesh tend to be found underneath the food item.
Time for some actual research.
How about first we knock down all those lay explanations:

In wild animals, food selection begins with foraging (or hunting, for carnivores) behavior, and ends with food consumption. Through domestication, however, hunting behavior in dogs seems to have been genetically modified if not entirely eradicated. Some evidence that this is so comes from studies of “village” or feral dogs. These are dogs that generally survive by scavenging, raising the possibility that domesticated dogs have not maintained a fully functional repertoire of hunting behaviors. It should be noted, however, that not much is known about how wolves decide what is palatable (e.g. appearance, odor, texture, flavor), so it is hard to determine if dogs’ preferences in that respect have changed in domestication. So it is unlikely that any food-related behavior you observe in a domesticated dog is “leftover” from their wolf ancestors. Possible, but unlikely.
Then, I asked this reader a few questions: are there other dogs in the house? Yes, a male dog. Does she generally feed the dog the same food every day? Yes.

I could not find anything in the literature directly addressing this issue. Here are some things we do know about food selection in domesticated dogs, and my best guess as to the explanation of this particular dog’s behavior:
(1) It is certain that odor plays a strong role in food selection, because anosmic dogs (who can’t smell) show reduced discrimination between types of meat that are otherwise highly discriminable.
(2) Dogs combine olfactory information (smell) with social information to select what type of food they want. In one study, dogs preferred eating something that smelled like the breath of another dog who had recently been fed.
I wonder if perhaps Shug (white poodle) smelled something on the other dog’s breath, and was looking for it. This reader insisted that the two dogs are fed the same foods. It is possible that there is some odor produced by the interaction of the other dog’s saliva and the food that Shug was trying to find in her food bowl.
One other bit of info that I stumbled across concerns liberality in dogs. Laterality is an observable measure of functional asymmetry in the brain. The human brain, for example, is strongly left-lateralized for language. This means that much of language processing occurs on the left side of the brain. Human handedness (whether you favor your right or left hand) has to do with laterality as well. Human handedness may be a topic for another day – this day, we shall focus on dog paw-edness. Do dogs favor one paw over the other?

So the answer is yes, and is actually related to their sex. Females tend to prefer the right paw, and males tend to prefer the left paw. What is most interesting to me is that task #3 was a food retrieval task.
I am well aware that I might be reaching here and over-interpreting – but I wonder if perhaps Shug, if she is right-pawed like most other female dogs, is simply trying to move the food away from the wall. Kind of like, if you’re at a restaurant, and you’re right handed, it totally sucks to be the guy at the end of the booth with your right hand against the wall.
So, there you have it. Both may be stretching it a little, but you’ve got two workable hypotheses that are totally testable.

What Are the Health Benefits of an Elevated Dog Feeding Bowl?

Most dogs eat and drink from bowls placed on the ground. Some dogs, especially taller breeds, may have trouble reaching the food and water bowls at this level without straining. Elevated food and water bowls make the dog’s food and water more readily available and prevent unnecessary straining and injury.

Improves Posture

• When a dog eats for drinks from a regular, ground-level bowl, it has to bend and strain its neck to reach the bowl. Elevated food and water bowls allow dogs to eat, while standing, which is a much more comfortable position. These types of bowls help to improve your dog’s posture, according to Vet Info.com. Comfort and strain-free eating and drinking is especially beneficial for older, arthritic dogs.

Makes Swallowing Easier

• Dogs need to raise their heads to swallow water, which can make using ground-level bowls difficult. An elevated bowl helps make swallowing easier, especially for a dog with esophageal conditions that make swallowing difficult, according to Pet-Supplies-Review.com. A dog with mega-esophagus has an enlarged and flaccid esophagus, which dilates while eating. This causes food to gather in the esophagus, rather than descend into the stomach. With an elevated dog bowl, the dog has the added bonus of gravity, which helps to push the food down the esophagus.

Lowers the Risk of Bloat

Elevated dog bowls may lower a dog’s risk of bloat. Bloat is a serious, often fatal condition that occurs when a dog eats too quickly, forcing air into its stomach and causing the stomach to bloat and twist. This extremely painful condition, if left untreated, can lead to death.  An elevated food bowl might make a dog eat its food more slowly, thus ingesting less air into its stomach.

We here at rrruffhouse make elevated food bowls for any size dog in any design! We make them to order. Please allow 2-4 weeks for pick up, can ship if needed.

How to Keep a Dog From Vomiting

There are various factors that will cause vomiting in dogs. Sometimes it may be a result of a medical condition such as colitis or kidney disease–other times it may be the pet has a food allergy–or simply put her mouth where it didn’t belong. Here are some ways to control vomiting

Instructions

 

1. • 1

     Feed at least two meals a day. Most dogs, especially smaller dogs, do better with more than one meal. Just like humans, once a day isn’t enough and can cause nausea, which in turn can cause vomiting.

   • 2

     Don’t allow your dog to drink a lot of water at once, especially before a meal or after coming in from the heat. Pick the bowl up before he drinks too much.

   • 3

     Don’t let your dog run or engage in vigorous play for at least an hour after a meal.

   • 4

     Try to walk your dog during cooler weather, and if it’s summertime, in the early morning or evening hours is best. Hot weather can sometimes cause a dog to vomit, especially on an empty stomach.

   • 5

     If your dog vomits more than once or twice in a day and it continues, feed a bland diet. Start off with white rice and mix in a couple of tbsp. of cottage cheese for the first day or two. You can also add a tsp. or two of canned pumpkin, which helps control vomiting. If your dog won’t eat this meal, you can throw in some ground beef (but make sure to rinse it after cooking to get rid of the fat). You can also use low-fat chicken or turkey, but ground beef is actually softer on digestion. Continue with the rice, cottage cheese and beef (or chicken/turkey) for a few days to keep the vomiting under control. After a few days gradually wean your dog off of this food by mixing it in with her regular food.

   • 6

     If your dog is prone to vomiting it could be from food allergies. Feed a sensitive stomach formula dog food or one with no grain, which can often cause food allergies, and thus vomiting. Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance limited ingredient, allergy-formula line consists of only one protein source (meat) and one carb source (potato or brown rice), which decreases the chances of an allergic reaction.

     Tips & Warnings

     • Don’t allow your dog to have water for at least 4 hours prior to anesthesia and within 3 hours after. If your dog seems parched after the anesthesia you can let him have an ice cube. Withhold food for at least 12 hours before surgery and wait at least four hours after.

     • Reglan (Metoclopramide) is a common drug for controlling vomiting in dogs. If your dog is prone to vomiting due to a recurring condition such as colitis, it may be a good idea to keep some on hand. It’s by prescription only, so you would need to consult with your vet first. If the vet prescribes it, you would normally give one tablet every 12 hours. Another medication that isn’t as strong and can be given on an ongoing basis to dogs with sensitive stomachs is Famotidine. It can be purchased over the counter as an acid reducer or prescribed by your vet. But in either case, consult with your vet first.

     • Never give a dog aspirin after surgery; it can cause vomiting. There are a variety of other medications to give for pain, but consult with your vet first.

     • Don’t feed treats to a dog that is vomiting.

     • Many dogs are allergic to chicken, which can cause vomiting. Another type of dog food such as fish or vegetarian formula (or homemade diet consisting of only vegetables or fish and vegetables) may work better.

     • If your dog vomits three or more times in 24 hours or for more than a day you should seek veterinary care, because your dog is likely dehydrated and could have a more serious condition that needs to be treated. The vet may choose to replenish your dog with fluids, which is a simple office procedure and not costly.

      

 

 

How to Keep a Dog From Vomiting

There are various factors that will cause vomiting in dogs. Sometimes it may be a result of a medical condition such as colitis or kidney disease–other times it may be the pet has a food allergy–or simply put her mouth where it didn’t belong. Here are some ways to control vomiting

Instructions

 

1. • 1

     Feed at least two meals a day. Most dogs, especially smaller dogs, do better with more than one meal. Just like humans, once a day isn’t enough and can cause nausea, which in turn can cause vomiting.

   • 2

     Don’t allow your dog to drink a lot of water at once, especially before a meal or after coming in from the heat. Pick the bowl up before he drinks too much.

   • 3

     Don’t let your dog run or engage in vigorous play for at least an hour after a meal.

   • 4

     Try to walk your dog during cooler weather, and if it’s summertime, in the early morning or evening hours is best. Hot weather can sometimes cause a dog to vomit, especially on an empty stomach.

   • 5

     If your dog vomits more than once or twice in a day and it continues, feed a bland diet. Start off with white rice and mix in a couple of tbsp. of cottage cheese for the first day or two. You can also add a tsp. or two of canned pumpkin, which helps control vomiting. If your dog won’t eat this meal, you can throw in some ground beef (but make sure to rinse it after cooking to get rid of the fat). You can also use low-fat chicken or turkey, but ground beef is actually softer on digestion. Continue with the rice, cottage cheese and beef (or chicken/turkey) for a few days to keep the vomiting under control. After a few days gradually wean your dog off of this food by mixing it in with her regular food.

   • 6

     If your dog is prone to vomiting it could be from food allergies. Feed a sensitive stomach formula dog food or one with no grain, which can often cause food allergies, and thus vomiting. Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance limited ingredient, allergy-formula line consists of only one protein source (meat) and one carb source (potato or brown rice), which decreases the chances of an allergic reaction.

     Tips & Warnings

     • Don’t allow your dog to have water for at least 4 hours prior to anesthesia and within 3 hours after. If your dog seems parched after the anesthesia you can let him have an ice cube. Withhold food for at least 12 hours before surgery and wait at least four hours after.

     • Reglan (Metoclopramide) is a common drug for controlling vomiting in dogs. If your dog is prone to vomiting due to a recurring condition such as colitis, it may be a good idea to keep some on hand. It’s by prescription only, so you would need to consult with your vet first. If the vet prescribes it, you would normally give one tablet every 12 hours. Another medication that isn’t as strong and can be given on an ongoing basis to dogs with sensitive stomachs is Famotidine. It can be purchased over the counter as an acid reducer or prescribed by your vet. But in either case, consult with your vet first.

     • Never give a dog aspirin after surgery; it can cause vomiting. There are a variety of other medications to give for pain, but consult with your vet first.

     • Don’t feed treats to a dog that is vomiting.

     • Many dogs are allergic to chicken, which can cause vomiting. Another type of dog food such as fish or vegetarian formula (or homemade diet consisting of only vegetables or fish and vegetables) may work better.

     • If your dog vomits three or more times in 24 hours or for more than a day you should seek veterinary care, because your dog is likely dehydrated and could have a more serious condition that needs to be treated. The vet may choose to replenish your dog with fluids, which is a simple office procedure and not costly.

      

 

 

How to Choose Healthy Dog Food

 

Have you ever scanned the ingredients in a commercial dog food and thought, “How can this be healthy?” Some may think most pet foods available in stores today are processed and full of preservatives, they are not any better for our dogs than potato chips are for humans. However, unlike potato chips, pet food must prove it can provide all the nutrients needed by the dog, cat, puppy, or kitten before it is sold. So before your dog takes another bite, read these tips on how to find the healthiest food for your beloved dog.

I have written out some raw food recipes if your interested after reading this, follow the link for the recipes. http://rrruffhouse.com/2014/01/23/raw-dog-food-recipes/

Understand that arguably, the best ratios for a healthy dog’s diet are about 50% meat, 50% vegetables, grain-free, wheat-free, and no cheap fillers.Choose pet food close to this ingredient ratio. However, this information is not available from the regulated part of the label, for example, guaranteed analysis or ingredient list.
Ensure protein sources are high in the ingredient list. The meal is the pre-cooked meat, which ensures that it will not reduce anymore during the cooking process. (It takes 5 pounds of the animal meat to make one pound of the animal meal.) You could look for three of the first five ingredients listed on the label as a form of protein such as chicken meal, lamb meal, venison meal.

Dog Food No No’s:

Grains can be a long-term source of energy and energy storage for dogs, but they can also be used as a cheap filler to boost the food’s protein percentage.Watch out! Any grain you feed your dog should be used in whole form so that it supplies more fiber, vitamins, and minerals. The best grains for dogs (when used in the proper percentages) are rolled oats, barley, quinoa, millet, and brown rice.

Often, low quality dog foods will list a meat ingredient first, which will be followed by several by-products and fillers. In this case, although meat is listed first, there are more fillers, which changes the ratio noted above.

Think twice before making your dog go vegetarian. Dogs need protein. Would a dog naturally be vegetarian? No. Most veterinarians and practitioners agree that although a dog can survive on a vegetarian diet, they may not thrive on it.
Be aware that while preservatives may be necessary to keep the food edible, preservatives do not have to be artificial chemicals that might be cancer-causing agents. Avoid pet foods that use chemical preservatives BHA, BHT and Ethoxyquin. Vitamin E and vitamin C are great preservatives that are much better for your dog.
Choose Premium Brand dog foods instead of Economy Brand dog foods. The cheapest ingredients are rarely the healthiest ones.

Go holistic. Holistic foods are 100% natural and 100% nutritious. They contain human-grade ingredients.

Look at a healthy human’s diet. If you would not eat it, your dog probably should not eat it either, such as animal fat and added salt or sugar. However, there are ingredients, such as chocolate, grapes, raisins, white flour and onions that are not good for your dog. Do not make the mistake of thinking all human food is appropriate for your canine. Canine and human nutritional needs and likes differ, for example, what is appropriate and appealing for your dog may not be something you care to eat. In addition, some ingredients considered undesirable by US consumers enjoyed by humans in other cultures.

TIPS:

• A good way to see if your dog’s diet is suitable is to check how it comes out the other end. No, you do not have to get too close to it, but as you pick it up in your poop scoop or bag, check it for consistency and general appearance. A healthy dog’s output should be firm and without any traces of blood or mucus.
• If you want to know what is in your dog’s food, try making your own dog food. There are plenty of recipes and meal plans available online, but beware. Research what you are doing. Consult with your veterinarian to sketch a well-balanced diet. A helpful book is “The Whole Pet Diet” by Andi Brown, and she gives some good recipes. If you would rather save time and pay more for the same foods, she also produces Halo Spot’s Stew, which is her homemade recipe canned.
• Find the best food in your budget window. Use what you have learned about ingredient labels to make the best decision.
• When changing your dog’s food it is important to switch gradually, as it is easier on the dog’s digestive system, and reactions to the new food will be less severe. It is recommended that you gradually increase the new food in the following sequence: 1/7, 1/3, 1/1, 3/1, 7/1, and 1. Calculate this new portion of new food to old food (first change: 8 cups of food with one cup of new food with 7 cups of old food). Each change should be gradual with several days (5 days to a week is best) between changes. It should take a month or more. Even a 4-day transition can help avoid digestive upsets.
• Often, you will find what seems to be a good dog food in almost every aspect, but it has too much grain. To help balance the ratios, try a grain-free canned dog food to supplement your dry food with. Dogs love canned food mixed with their food.
• Every dog, like every human, has different nutritional requirements. It is important you check with your veterinarian to decide what foods best meet your pet’s needs.
• Raw food diet is often found the most favorable for dogs’ health. You can find meaty bones in the stores or order online. In addition, dogs could eat some vegetables or fruits (tomatoes, carrots, apples, etc.). Provide vitamins as supplements.
• My top 5 food picks and where to buy them

  My top number one choice  is a brand called ACANA  here is their website for you to research http://www.acana.com/products/

  I personally use this product to feed some of my dogs who have skin and food issues, (bulldogs, boxers) I recommend the ACANA PACIFICA it is an all fish diet ( stinks but worth the bad smell ) it is  60% fish, 40% fruits and vegetables. That’s it!!! no  soy, bad fillers, unwanted dyes or chemicals and best of all CANADIAN! This will cost you anywhere from$60-$80 depending of the flavor you choose. This is sold at Global Pet Foods

  My number two pick  is PRO PLAN by Purina,  http://www.purina.ca/products/dogs/pro-plan/default.aspx  don’t wig out over the fact it is made bu Purina, it has come a long way since the old school Purina products, the pro plan series is real chicken or lamb when you by the shredded meat bag. This can be found in most pet stores likePetsmart and will cost between $40-$60 depending on size of bag and again flavour.

  My number three pick is  CANIDAE  http://www.canidae.com/cost-to-feed-canidae/index.html?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=bing1  This can be ordered on-line and in some specialty dog food stores in the bigger cities, prices on this food varies so you will have to research the site I gave you and decide from there.

  My number four pick is THE GREAT CANADIAN DOG FOOD  http://www.thegreatcanadiandogfood.ca/  I also personally use this one to feed the other half of my dogs who don’t have and food or skin issues, I have been using this brand for just about a year now and have had great success with it so far. I have had zero issues with any of my dogs or the other dogs in for daycare or boarding eating this food, they LOVE it! It can be found in most equine stores for example here,THRASHERS FEED  it is about $40 per bag for an 18kg bag.

  MY NUMBER FIVE PICK  is  NUTRIENCE  http://www.nutrience.com/ This again is a fair commercial food found in most pet stores, I personally have never used it with my pack but I know people who have and rate it a 6 out of 10, it is about $40-$70 per bad depending again on flavor and size of bag.

   

  The opinions about the foods are just that MY OPINIONS you decide what you like if anything, and make your own choice. Seek a vet if your really unsure about what to feed and how much to feed. I hope this helps some of you in making good choices for feeding your dog.

BEST DOG FOOD I HAVE FOUND

rrruffhouse is proud to announce that we are officially part of the Great Canadian Dog Food Company. As of December 12 you can buy your food from rrruffhouse! 18kg bag of dog food is $45 per bag, no taxes! If you would like to learn more about this food go tohttp://www.thegreatcanadiandogfood.ca/dogFood.php we will be carrying the Premium bag as it is the best food for the best price and the number one seller for people with dogs.

I did about six months of research on this company and loved what I read so much that I became a distributor. Here is why I love them so……. Other dog food companies say made in Canada and that is not a lie, but what they don’t tell you is that all the ingredients they use to make the dog food are shipped into Canada from other countries, so although they aren’t lying by telling you made in Canada, they kinda are. No where on the labels do they state that the meat product (some times stated as unknown) came from third world countries to cut manufacturing cost! This can be seen by anyone with some time and a computer, like me.

Another reason I like this company is because it IS made in Canada and every ingredient they use comes from within 100 km of the manufacturing plant. All from Ontario!!! Supporting local farmers! Woot woot! I will support that all day. I know where its made, where its ingredients come from, and I know what meat is being used! I didn’t become a distributor to make money, Nope not at all. Mostly it was to cut my own food bill down, but because I have gotten so many people to switch to this food it was to make things easier for you guys to feed your dogs well and not have to pay the mark up of retailer like ” Petsmart ” and you don’t have to take a second mortgage to feed your dogs or compromise health and well-being of your dog for the old mighty dollar!!

I am not trying to convince you to all switch dog foods, I am simply giving you options and a choice. If you care not to switch, great! If you do and want to try this food give me a call or send me an email. You CANNOT  buy this food in pet stores, you can either buy on-line or from me. The average person has a hard time buying it on-line due to the minimum required to purchase to keep costs down, lets face it the average home would not order 10 bags at a time, well I am not your average home! I order it per skid load with is why by me buying in bulk I can offer you the low price. I will be totally honest I only make $3.00 per bag above what I pay, that includes the taxes and the shipping, like I said earlier I am not looking to make it rich I am simply offering you choice. Take your dog food costs into your own hands and stop paying the huge mark up of pets stores.

Can a Dog’s Stomach Turn Upside Down? AKA Twisted Bowel Syndrome in Dogs

 

A dog’s stomach has the ability to twist in a painful and often deadly condition called bloat. Medically known as gastric dilatation/volvulus, bloat can occur when a dog eats a meal too quickly. Fast action is required to re position the dog’s stomach, or your pup could suffer a host of medical consequences. It is possible for a stomach to turn completely upside down during a case of bloat. Twisted bowel syndrome in dogs, is the second largest cause of canine death, often killing within an hour of onset. Because the bowel is twisted, food cannot be digested and toxins cannot be eliminated from the body. Surgery is most likely and highly successful if treatment is sought immediately.

Causes

• There are no clear answers as to cause, although it is seen more in larger, deep-chested dogs. Gas swells the stomach so much that it twists.

Symptoms

• When the bowels twist, the stomach appears distended and the skin on the dog’s belly area is taunt. The dog may refuse to lie down

Shock

• Weak, rapid heart beat, pale gums and loss of body heat are signs that the dog needs emergency help.

Hazards

• Some tissue may die from a tight twist, and toxins and bacteria may be released when the tissue is untwisted. Medication can reduce the effects, but some dogs will not survive.

   

  What Happens

  • If a dog eats his food too fast or vigorously exercises right after consuming a meal, he may develop bloat. The stomach muscles twist and turn on themselves, cutting off the flow anything in or out of the organ. The stomach may twist only slightly, or in severe cases, turn completely upside down. The food continues to be digested in the stomach, and the gaseous buildup literally bloats or swells the stomach during the process. The condition becomes painful for a suffering dog. As the abdomen may quickly swell, he may attempt unproductive vomiting or coughing, or show signs of shock such as shaking.

  Life and Death

  • Large-breed dogs are most susceptible to suffer bloat, as are deep-chested pups and elderly dogs. The degree of torque varies from one dog to another. A dog with an upside-down stomach can quickly suffer fluid loss and electrolyte imbalance, causing damage to other organs in as little as 20 minutes. Dogs who get prompt treatment have about an 80 percent survival rate.

  Veterinary Treatment

  • A dog suffering from a twisted or upside-down stomach must be seen by a medical professional immediately. In rare instances, a vet can reposition the stomach from the outside of the dog’s abdomen, but surgery is required in most cases. Failing to untwist the stomach and return it to its original position can restrict blood flow and lead to heart damage. If your dog has surgery, the vet may opt for a secondary procedure called gastroplexy, whereby he tacks the stomach to the abdominal wall to reduce the potential for it turning upside down in the future.

  Preventative Precautions

  • Talk to your vet about the best way to prevent against future instances of bloat in your dog outside of surgery. He may suggest diet changes, such as eliminating fermented carbs and grains from you pup’s diet. You may also opt for small, frequent meals. If the dog’s a fast eater, spread the food along a baking sheet or use a feeding bowl with a raised center to encourage your dog to slow down and enjoy his meal.

How to Protect a Dog’s Skin in Winter

With the cold weather and cranked-up heat — comes the dry and itchy skin — and with the dry and itchy skin — comes the moisturizers. But while you’re protecting your own skin, you might want to think about Fido’s too. Dogs experience the same winter skin woes as us humans, but unfortunately, you can’t use Nivea or Jergens on them. Here are some other ways to protect your pooch from that pesky winter skin.

Instructions

1. • Brush your dog frequently to get rid of dead skin cells. Brushing stimulates circulation and the production of oil, which in turn provides moisture. This applies to both long and shorthaired dogs.

   • Use a moisturizing shampoo with an ingredient such as lanolin, that is specifically formulated for dogs. People shampoos can upset a dog’s pH balance (which is different from ours), and thus be harsh on their skin.

   • Shampoo your dog less frequently during the cold months. Too much bathing can strip the coat of its natural oils. Every few months is normally a good schedule, unless you have a dog that spends more time outdoors.

   • Feed your dog a quality brand of food (or homemade diet) with Omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamin E (mixed tocopherols are a source of Vitamin E) for a healthy skin and coat.

   • Add fish oil (Omega-3) to your dog’s diet. Fish oil is used to treat canine skin allergies and relieve itching, and may also treat a variety of conditions including high cholesterol, arthritis and kidney disease. You can purchase liquid fish oil or break open a fish oil capsule and add it to your dog’s food. Flaxseed oil is also a good source of Omega-3 for the coat and immune system, but make sure it’s organic for full benefits.

   • Use a room humidifier to moisten the air if your home is too dry from running the heat.

Get Rid of Fleas in a House

Fleas can drive pets and their owners nuts. They can cause skin problems for animals and the people who love them. Treating the pet is not the end of flea control — it is only the beginning. Once fleas get in the house, you have to treat the entire dwelling. You also must time your efforts correctly, because fleas reproduce rapidly and their eggs are often present in the home long after the adult fleas are killed.

Instructions

1. • 1

     Bathe all pets with a flea shampoo and give them a dose of a systemic pesticide. Remove them from the house for at least eight hours.

   • 2

     Remove all sheets, towels, furniture covers, rugs and curtains from their places. Wash them all in very hot water and detergent. Dry them in a hot dryer and place them in tightly sealed lawn and leaf bags. Send anything that is not washable to the dry cleaners

   • 3

     Place all open food products in the refrigerator. Clean out the cupboards and place all sealed and canned foods into lawn and leaf bags. Remove them from the house. Vacuum inside all cupboards.

   • 4

     Vacuum the house thoroughly several times. Vacuum every room, every closet and all furniture. Change the vacuum bags frequently during the process. Remove filled bags from the vacuum and seal them in a refuse bag and remove the bag from the house.

   • 5

     Mix a citrus oil cleanser into very hot water in a bucket. Scrub all cabinets and drawers with the solution and leave the doors to them open. Scrub all baseboards and walls thoroughly with sponges dipped in the solution. Mop the floor with the solution. Change water frequently to make sure it is always hot.

   • 6

     Open all the interior doors in the house. Close all exterior doors and all windows. Follow the directions to set off flea bombs. This usually involves setting the bombs off in the center of each room and leaving the house for four to six hours without returning. Make sure all pets and people are out of the house before bombing.

   • 7

     Return to the house after the suggested time. Open the windows. Return food to the cupboards and pantries. Replace washed fabrics. Vacuum one more time just in case. Launder all clothing you have been wearing.