Get Rid of Fleas in a House

Fleas can drive pets and their owners nuts. They can cause skin problems for animals and the people who love them. Treating the pet is not the end of flea control — it is only the beginning. Once fleas get in the house, you have to treat the entire dwelling. You also must time your efforts correctly, because fleas reproduce rapidly and their eggs are often present in the home long after the adult fleas are killed.

Instructions

1. • 1

     Bathe all pets with a flea shampoo and give them a dose of a systemic pesticide. Remove them from the house for at least eight hours.

   • 2

     Remove all sheets, towels, furniture covers, rugs and curtains from their places. Wash them all in very hot water and detergent. Dry them in a hot dryer and place them in tightly sealed lawn and leaf bags. Send anything that is not washable to the dry cleaners

   • 3

     Place all open food products in the refrigerator. Clean out the cupboards and place all sealed and canned foods into lawn and leaf bags. Remove them from the house. Vacuum inside all cupboards.

   • 4

     Vacuum the house thoroughly several times. Vacuum every room, every closet and all furniture. Change the vacuum bags frequently during the process. Remove filled bags from the vacuum and seal them in a refuse bag and remove the bag from the house.

   • 5

     Mix a citrus oil cleanser into very hot water in a bucket. Scrub all cabinets and drawers with the solution and leave the doors to them open. Scrub all baseboards and walls thoroughly with sponges dipped in the solution. Mop the floor with the solution. Change water frequently to make sure it is always hot.

   • 6

     Open all the interior doors in the house. Close all exterior doors and all windows. Follow the directions to set off flea bombs. This usually involves setting the bombs off in the center of each room and leaving the house for four to six hours without returning. Make sure all pets and people are out of the house before bombing.

   • 7

     Return to the house after the suggested time. Open the windows. Return food to the cupboards and pantries. Replace washed fabrics. Vacuum one more time just in case. Launder all clothing you have been wearing.

 

 

How to Break Up a Dog Fight

I was asked recently from a client this question,

I have read several articles in our local paper about people witnessing a dog fight and wanting to stop the dog fight but did not know how to stop a dog fight. I am impulsive when it comes to these things and it caused me to ask what is the best thing to do when witnessing a dog fight? Is there a way to break up a dog fight? Should I try to stop a dog fight? I love animals and react without thinking about my safety and have stepped in before when I have seen a dog fight – fortunately I did not get hurt. What is your suggestion for what to do when confronted by dog fighting?

This was my response,

First, do not get rid of your instincts. There is no knowledge behind instinctual intelligence so “not thinking” is actually a good thing. In my profession, I only use “thinking” when I have to explain something to the human. With dogs, it’s all about instinct and energy.

Here’s what you need to keep in mind. You can stop a dog fight by observing body language. This is what I do with aggressive cases – stop the bad dog behavior at the very instance you see it about to escalate. But if that’s not possible, during a dog fight, once there is one occurring, stay calm and observe who or which of the two dogs is at a higher level of intensity. That’s the dog I’m going to focus on. Then you need to step in to give that dog the right touch – this means the rib cage area. The reason is that this forces the dog to open his mouth and let go of his hold on the other dog during the dog fight. It’s about timing too, so look for the right moment and then act quickly.

You can use a loud, strong voice or grunt directly at him and pull back from the back of his neck and collar – not from the top, but from the back and pull up, otherwise he can interpret this as you getting into the fight as well, and this is when the dog can turn on the human and bite him because his level of intensity is so high, he doesn’t think “oh, that’s the human.” You’re just another dog in the fight and before you know it, the dog you’re trying to defend is coming after you.

Whether it’s a big dog or little dog, the technique and method is the same. Do not scream repeatedly unless you are calling for help. Sometimes people are not going to help, so don’t expect that everyone will have your ability or good will. Most importantly, be quick, stay mindfully aware, emotionally in tune, and remain calm and assertive.

Ask Me How I Feel About “Flexi” Leashes

Ahhhhhhhhhh, retractable leashes… a hot topic  that inspired me to write down some brief thoughts…As most people who know me know, I HATE flexi-leashes.  This might be the one dog training tool that I absolutely cannot find ANY value in; (even silly ones usually at least have some kind of foundation in a reasonably good idea… for the most part); NOT this one (if you ask me…).

Everything you can do with a retractable leash can be done on a long, fixed line (albeit maybe not as conveniently).  The benefits of convenience, in my opinion, are far outweighed by the potential negative consequences of using of one these bad leashes.  Exhibit A…  (Fear tactic?  Possibly.)The injury in the photo to the right is a pretty typical example of what retractable leashes (cords, maybe more accurate?) can and do cause on a regular basis.  (I will accede to the fact that the argument could be made that the leash didn’t cause the injury; the poor – or complete lack of – training of the dog at the end of it did).  However, when was the last time you saw a well-trained dog walking down the street attached to one of these?  I’m going to venture a guess here & say never.  Been wrong before, but…

Exhibit A:

The reasons I can’t stand these things are as follows:1)     Simple mechanical malfunctions.  I worked at a major corporate-owned PETSTORE for 4 years and I can tell you from experience that these things malfunction.  Often, the mechanism inside breaks (never EVER at a convenient time… speaking of convenience) resulting in the line being continuously let out when you don’t want it to be OR jammed.  When and if the line jams and the contraption is ripped out of your hand, guess what happens?  Your dog was already taking off after something (or it wouldn’t have been yanked out of your hand) and now he has a plastic monster chasing after him.  It is scary to dogs when this happens, and many a canine has ended up on a “Missing” poster over it.

2)     Manners.  I can’t tell you how many times on how many different occasions (at how many different events, to the disillusion of how many people) I have seen someone’s dog 16 feet away from its owner wrapped around a display in a store, peeing on a table at an event, tying up another dog, “THIS CLOSE” to becoming dinner for another dog, in a completely different aisle or on a completely different STREET than the person holding the other end of the leash, jumping up, scratching, lifting their legs, wrapping up an exhibit, pulling down shelving… You see where I’m going with this.  “Manners” is also a nice way of saying this is yet another reason I can’t stand these things.  Safety may be more accurate, which brings me to:

Exhibit B:

Reason #3)    They are dangerous.  Notice the pictures that I have included thus far depict injuries to HUMANS.  Never mind the injuries to unfortunate dogs, including the BYSTANDERS.  I will again accede to the fact that it is probably POSSIBLE to use these things appropriately(?), responsibly, but I am gritting my teach while even typing out that sentence because I have such a bad taste in my mouth for these due to what I have consistently seen over the years.  I cannot recall ever once seeing somebody use one of these things responsibly… and I have seen a LOT of dog/human interactions (ya think? ;).Retractable (extendable… flexi… choose your word) leashes frequently cause injuries up to & including those in Exhibit B, adapted from Flexi’s own website.  (See picture on left.) I can already hear somebody arguing with me in favor of “Flexi” leashes by saying something like, “Well, I could say pit bulls frequently cause injuries up to and including the propaganda photos to my right” which is bullsh*t for many reasons and I will debunk that potential argument in another article. 4)     … and one of the more important reasons in my profession: retractable leashes send mixed (poor) communication signals to the dog.  There is ALWAYS tension on a retractable leash… ALWAYS.  The dog is aware of this, and this can have a SLEW of negative consequences, too innumerable to include all of them in this article, but teaching your dog to walk with tension on the leash  being the least of it.

And Reason #5:    The total lack of control any given owner has on one of these things leads to injuries to other dogs with unusual frequency. Even more so when there are multiple dogs on retractables.All three dogs were on leashes, but both of the attacking dogs were (1) larger  (2) on extendable leashes that were fully extended, leaving their owner with little control over them; (3) too large and strong for their owner to control both of them at the same time to begin with, [reliably on extendable leashes]. The other dogs’ owner should know better.  My friend had taken their dog outside for a poo, and suddenly around the corner  came the neighbor dogs at the ends of their leashes, their owner obviously not paying a great deal of attention to what her dogs might encounter out of her sight, running ahead of her as they were.  Even though she knew her dogs had attacked her dog just a few months’ previous, to the tune of over $300 in veterinary care.  This time was worse (& the vet’s bill reflects it).”

Exhibit C:

I did not actually include in these pictorial’s the injuries inflicted on dogs BY their own “Flexi” leashes.. I have knowledge of these through friends who work at vets’ offices and those injuries include: tail injuries resulting in amputation, lacerations down to the bone, injuries to tendons, torn skin (think inner thighs from leashes going under dogs), eye injuries, burns to the skin, etc.

In conclusion, I’d like to go on record as saying I can’t stand extendable/retractable/Flexi leashes.  I do not believe that they can be used 100% safely for the simple malfunction argument alone.  They do nothing to help in a typical dog’s training because of the constant tension on the collar.  They give the owner extremely limited control… to the potential physical detriment to both human & canine, as evidenced above.  They basically represent a gigantic percentage of what I feel is wrong with dog ownership these days; lack of: control, responsibility, understanding, and training.  Rant concluded.  Love it or hate it, thank you for reading.If you or someone you know have had your mind at all opened to my arguments here and would like assistance with your own dog, please contact us anytime at rrruffhouse.com we are always happy to educate and teach everyone who wants help.

Why Do Dogs Chew Their Nails?

Nail chewing and biting is not standard dog behavior and could be a cause for concern, according to Dr. Page Wages at the Oberlin Animal Hospital. Boredom, anxiety, poor grooming, allergies and infections are common causes for the chewing habit, and should be addressed quickly to ease the dog’s distress. Some causes can easily be resolved by a trip to the pet store for allergy sensitive food and toys, while other conditions will require a prescription by a veterinarian.

Allergies

• Food and outdoor allergies can lead to nail biting in dogs. Allergies to grass, pollen and other outdoor items may be irritating the dogs paws and nails. Additives to the dog’s diet may also be causing discomfort, including corn. Chewing the nails is a way dogs relieve their itchy sensation. Allergy sensitive foods, including those without corn, are available at large pet retailers. Veterinarians can provide a prescription to ease the symptoms of outdoor allergies.

Infection

• If a nail is injured, and the wound is exposed, infection may result. If the area around the dog’s nails appears red, swollen, tender to the touch or is seeping, it may be infected. Dogs will chew the area to relieve the pressure and itchy feeling. An antibiotic is required to cure the infection, so a trip to the vet is necessary

Anxiety

• Leaving dogs alone can cause anxiety behaviors for some. Chewing nails, defecating in the house and destructive behavior are common signs of anxiety. Crate or kennel the dog when he will be left alone in the home. Dogs are den animals by nature, and need to feel secure. Consider leaving a radio or TV on so the dog can hear human interaction, and supply him with a few chew toys to ease his need to gnaw.

Boredom

• Stimulating a dog’s senses is essential. Exercise, playtime, talking and training are all essential. A bored dog will become destructive to himself and his surroundings. Nail biting is a common sign of boredom. Supply the pet with interactive play toys when dog or human interaction isn’t possible.

Poor Grooming

• Some dogs chew on their nails simply because they need to be trimmed. Visit the vet’s office, a grooming salon or invest in a dog nail clippers. The nails should be kept trimmed to just above the quick. Have a vet or grooming salon show you how to do this task if you wish to maintain the dog’s nails at home. Overgrown nails lead to cracks, chips and more nail chewing from your dog.

Dog VS the bag

This is a mastiff named Guiness, he would say that he is a great protector of all things and takes great pride in keeping his house safe from intruders and all thing dangerous. Guiness weighs over 150 lbs and is a great source of comfort for his owner Ashleigh when she is away at work, she knows her house is safe and that nobody will get near the property, why? because guiness is a great guard dog and is big and strong and tough!! LOL

 

QUOTE OF THE DAY

The scariest moment is always just before you start.

Six Household Products That are Not Dog Safe

Some Toxic Ingredients and Their Effects on People and Pets:

Ammonia – Used in many de-greasers for ovens, glass and stainless steel, ammonia has a very high VOC, burns mucous membranes and contributes to asthma. If it is mixed with bleach, it creates a poisonous gas which can be deadly to small pets.

Chlorine – Used in disinfectants, toilet bowl cleaners and automatic dish detergent to name a few, chlorine is also used to bleach coffee filters. It can cause everything from dizziness to vomiting to laryngeal edema. Avoid this ingredient and be careful about letting your pet swim in the pool.

Glycol Ethers – Glycol ethers are found in many cleaning products that are not pet safe including glass cleaners, carpet cleaners and spot removers. It has been linked to anemia, lung damage and kidney damage in people and pets.

Formaldehyde – The thought of a funeral home comes to mind when formaldehyde is mentioned and everyone can recognize the strong, nauseating smell. But it’s also used in products such as soaps and even some pet shampoos. It can contribute to asthma and is carcinogenic.

Some Cleaning Products That are Not Dog Safe

There are many, many cleaning products that are not safe for dogs on the market. Here are a few popular cleaners that contain some of the ingredients mentioned above as well as others:

Floor Cleaners – These include Pine Sol and Mr. Clean. Even if you manage to get all of the residue off the floor, the vapors linger and are dangerous to your pet. Try a non-toxic, pet safe cleaner instead.

Bathroom Cleaners – These include Clorox Bathroom Cleaner and Scrubbing Bubbles. Try a product such as Ecover Bathroom Cleaner instead. Never use a continuous toilet bowl cleaner such as Clorox Automatic Toilet Bowl Cleaner. It is very dangerous and the temptation to drink out of the toilet is a quirk in many of our pups.

All Purpose Cleaners – For use in the kitchen and around the house, the most common toxic all-purpose cleaners that scream “Danger!” are Mr. Clean Multi-Purpose Spray and Formula 409.

Drain Openers – You may think that since this product is poured down the drain, it can’t be harmful to your pet. But the toxic drain openers give off dangerous fumes long after you’ve emptied them. For a non-toxic, pet safe option, try a product such as Earth Friendly Enzymes Drain Opener.

Glass Cleaner – It may seem that toxic glass cleaners are simpler products and are, therefore, safe but they are not. Instead of something like Windex, try a product such as Nature Clean Window and Glass Cleaner.

Laundry Detergent – It’s easy to assume that choosing a laundry detergent isn’t that important because the rinse cycle rinses it away. But there is residue left behind on clothes and pet blankets that can be harmful to your pet, especially those that chew on their bedding. Avoid detergents with toxic ingredients such as Tide and Cheer and try something like Down East’s Liquid Laundry Detergent.

Instead of using toxic cleaning products around the house, try one of the non-toxic and pet safe lines of cleaners. If you do decide to keep toxic cleaners, make absolutely sure they are put away. Put child safety locks on cabinet doors and put cleaners up as high as possible. Never use them when your pet is in the same room and air out the house after cleaning with them. Never leave any residue behind. But the warning signs are clear and you and your dog will be healthier and safer if you use cleaning products that are pet safe.

QUICK UPDATE ON ABBY-ROSE

Abby and her new friends

Just a quick little update on Abby-Rose, when she arrived she was a very shy and unstable little girl who would bite you rather than be your friend. Abby didn’t like to be near other dogs (she would bite) didn’t want to be brushed (she would bite) could not touch her feet (she would bite) absolutely could not cut her nails (she would bite) do you see a pattern? Well Abby has been here now four days and I am very proud to say we can touch her feet, got the back nails cut, not the front yet, she loves to be in with all the dogs, and she now likes to be brushed! We still need to work on a few things and still attempt to cut her front nails (she does not like that) we will try later today. I am very proud of little miss Abby she has come such a long way in a short time, still has some hills to climb but we will get there!

Dog Harness Vs Collars – How To Choose?

Are you having a dilemma on choosing a dog harness or a collar? Don’t get overwhelmed about deciding. There are so many different types of stylish dog collars and harnesses to choose from. This article will describe some of the ways on how to decipher on which one is right for your pet. We all love our best friend and want what’s best for them.

Let’s take a look at a Dog Harness

– A harness is designed to go over your dogs abdomen and chest area and then crossing over their back. One type is an “H” style which includes more padding for your best friend. This style helps distribute the weight evenly. The harness design is made to keep pressure off the neck and airway. It is made to protect their neck and back.

– Do you have a small dog or puppy? A dog harness is the way to go. When you have a puppy or small dog their necks and bones are fragile. With a harness you help them breath easier when on a leash.

– We all like taking our best friend for a walk or to the park. A dog harness will give you more control while walking and training him/her. Your dog can’t get out of a harness as easily as with a dog collar. While riding to the park some allow you to hook your best friend up to the seat belt. This will ease your mind by keeping them safe.

Some options for Collars for Dogs

There are many different types of collars. We will go through a couple of the most common types.

– Choker Chain Style: While using this type you can tug quickly on the chain so it tightens. Your dog will become alert and stop. This allows them to see what he is doing wrong and correct it. You should NEVER leave the chain on while unattended. And Never use if he/she has neck or throat issues.

– Quick Release collars for dogs are the most popular type. Made out of flat nylon with a plastic buckle. This allows for quick on and off of the collar. If you have a larger stronger dog it is recommended to use a standard buckle that is stronger. There are many stylish dog collars with the quick release. You have many options of colors, designs and sizes.

– When fitting the collar to your dog it is important that it fits properly. You should fit 2 finger widths between neck and collar. The collar should not slip over the ears. You don’t want it to big and have your best friend slip out of it while going for a walk.

When it comes time to choosing a dog harness or collars for dogs, see which one best fits your needs and theirs. Either way you decide make sure you put on their identification, rabies and license tags. Rather you decide on stylish dog collars or a dog harness, you want your best friend to be happy and obedient.

RAW HIDE, THE DANGERS OF GIVING THEM TO YOUR DOG

Rawhide is sold in just about every pet store – often in many different varieties. It’s a staple in most households with pets. Yet many blogs, organizations, and veterinarians warn that rawhide could not only be dangerous, it could actually be lethal. Here’s what you need to know before you give your dog rawhide.

What is rawhide? According toPet Planet, a franchise that prides itself on being well-versed in canine health, rawhide is the tough inner layer of bull, cow, water buffalo and horse hides. It is essentially a byproduct of the meat industry.

What are the dangers of rawhide? First of all, rawhide is not considered a food item. Thus, it is not covered by any labeling, processing, or content laws, and it may contain chemical preservatives. According to Associated Content, imported rawhide chews often contain toxins including arsenic, lead, titanium oxide, formaldehyde, chromium salts, mercury, cadmium and bromine. Even with the use of these highly questionable preservatives, the FDA reports that Salmonella has been detected in some of the imported chews. In the US and Canada, refrigerated trucks provide safer transport and the hides are generally only treated with hydrogen peroxide and a water rinse.

In addition to the chemical risk, rawhide can swell up to four times its original size in your dog’s stomach and cause life-threatening blockages. And dogs can chew off and swallow large pieces of rawhide which can get stuck in their esophagus, stomach, or intestines. This almost always requires surgical removal. In the terrible light of realizing too late, many dog lovers have postedwarnings and alternatives on their websites, like The Northeastern Boxer Rescue who lost a gorgeous dog named Maxwell because of a blockage caused by a rawhide chew.

The worst tragedies are the ones that can be prevented. If you must give your dog rawhide, make sure it was made in America. Choose one of the higher end brands and make sure it compliments your dog’s proportions and habits. For safety, monitor the chewing. Throw away the small, chewed down pieces.

Alternatives to rawhide: Or better yet, consider alternatives to rawhide like beef chews or rubber toys like the Kong (a delicacy when stuffed with peanut butter) or even the ingenious Antlerz, a chew made of deer antlers. They are long lasting, rich in minerals, and will not splinter during digestion.

Chewing is a very natural behavior for dogs. It helps keep the tartar from collecting on their teeth (preventing periodontal disease and dragon breath) and gives them immense satisfaction. There’s no need to take that away.

Do, however, chewse (you must have seen that coming!) wisely.