Fear of Nail Cutting

Swimming, particularly in warm water, can help your dog relax and also drain her energy. If you have a small dog, you don’t even need a pool. You can use a small tub of water. Simply hold the dog by the sides and let her paddle. If your dog is uncertain about the water, start by holding her on an incline, just let her bottom half touch the water. Wait until your dog begins to paddle with his front legs, and then you can slowly lower her front half into the water. If the dog begins to splash around and panic, calmly return the dog to the inclined position again – with the back half of the dog touching the water. Then once the dog relaxes and begins paddling with the front legs again, send her back in! Continue this until she becomes comfortable with the water.

Once your dog has reached the lowest level of energy, begin by holding a paw and presenting the nail clipper to it without cutting anything. Then send her right back into the water to drain even more energy. At the same time, you are softening her nails, so they will actually be easier to trim. Then, after another round of swimming, you present the nail clippers again. This time cut a little bit, just to let her experience it and see her reaction. If she panics, send her right back in for more water therapy, but if the dog remains calm, do the whole foot – and then send her back into the water! This way, you’re not giving the dog time to focus on the nail clipping, instead she is focusing on the water. We are exchanging one challenge for another! Your dog can learn to associate the nail trimmings with the time in between swims that she gets to relax and collect herself.

Keep repeating this process – allow your dog to swim, trim the nails, and put her right back in – until you’ve trimmed all four paws.

I encourage you to visualize the scenario going well before attempting it. Don’t panic or feel sorry if your dog is stressed. Instead, make your dog feel safe by maintaining the calm and assertive energy of a pack leader.

SUCCESS TEDDY

This is an email I received from Teddy’s owner and wanted to share,

We heard about Grace from our daughter Emily who had used her for their dog Toby. We decided to give her a try with Teddy. Teddy is a two year shitzu who thought he was the boss in our house. He would listen only when he wanted to, he would bark and jump up on our visitors, jump up on our couch when he felt like it. Recently he was introduced to a baby which he felt he needed to be the protector of the baby and when the baby cried and the dad tried to calm the baby Teddy decided he would nip the dad . We then knew he needed to be dealt with. He went and visited Grace and her boot camp for seven days. Since coming home he only gets up on the furniture when he is invited up, when our guests come to the door he sits and waits til he is told he can greet the visitors, when I would go down the stairs to the rec room he would tear down ahead of you, now when we tell him to wait at the top he waits til he’s told that it is ok to come down. The biggest accomplishment is when he had something in his mouth like my sock he would bite if we tried to get it from him, now I just say drop and he does. Our Teddy and now me are totally changed , I am the pack leader not him.
Thanks
Linda

How To Introduce Your Dog to Your Baby

Be aware of your energy. A baby in the house will affects the entire household. You may feel excited, anxious, or worried. Remember, your dog will mirror your emotions.

Claim your baby’s scent.  During this exercise, it is crucial that you set clear boundaries. Challenge the dog to sniff from a distance, while you are holding the item. By doing so, you are communicating to your dog that the item is yours and then giving permission for the dog to sniff. “This new item belongs to me, and you will need to follow my rules when around it.” This helps start the process of creating respect for the baby.

Establish boundaries around the nursery. I recommend starting with the nursery off-limits. Condition your dog to understand that there is an invisible barrier that she may not cross without your permission. Eventually, you can allow your dog to explore and sniff certain things in the room—with your supervision. Then you decide when she needs to leave. Repeat this activity a few times before the baby arrives. This will let your dog know that this room belongs to a pack leader and must be respected at all times.

Control the introduction. Start by taking your dog on a long walk. Be sure to drain all of your dog’s energy. Before returning, wait at the door step; make sure your dog is in a calm-submissive mode before inviting her in. Upon entering, your dog will instantly know there is a new scent in the house. If you have already introduced the scent, it will be somewhat familiar. The mother or father holding the baby must be in a completely calm-assertive state. The dog should be allowed to sniff the baby, but at a respectful distance. During this first meeting, do not bring the baby too close. Eventually, the dog can be allowed to get closer and closer to the baby. By doing this, you are teaching the dog to respect the baby as another pack leader.

Teach your baby. Once your child is in the exploratory state, it is important to supervise all interactions between him or her and the dog. This is a great opportunity to teach your child not to bother the dog, yank her tail, etc. These lessons on mutual respect cannot begin early enough. Too many children have inadvertently provoked an otherwise peaceful dog, simply because they were unsupervised or their parents had not given them proper instruction.

Don’t forget the dog. A dog does not need toys or special attention to feel important; you simply need to maintain the routine, providing daily walks and consistent leadership. This will help your dog feel secure and allow her to relax about the new addition to the family.

Forget breed. Don’t assume your dog will not pose a problem based on breed alone, or vice versa. Sure, babies have been bitten by Rottweilers and pit bulls, but they have also been injured by labs, chows, and mixed breeds. A baby in Toronto was killed by a cute little Pomeranian. What is the key? Leadership. Be honest with yourself. Can you control your dog at all times in all situations?

Your child’s safety comes first. If, after working with a professional and on your own, you are still not able to be 100% pack leader with your dog, then you must seriously think about using those nine months for finding your dog another home.

How To Introduce Your Dog to Your Baby

Be aware of your energy. A baby in the house will affects the entire household. You may feel excited, anxious, or worried. Remember, your dog will mirror your emotions.

Claim your baby’s scent.  During this exercise, it is crucial that you set clear boundaries. Challenge the dog to sniff from a distance, while you are holding the item. By doing so, you are communicating to your dog that the item is yours and then giving permission for the dog to sniff. “This new item belongs to me, and you will need to follow my rules when around it.” This helps start the process of creating respect for the baby.

Establish boundaries around the nursery. I recommend starting with the nursery off-limits. Condition your dog to understand that there is an invisible barrier that she may not cross without your permission. Eventually, you can allow your dog to explore and sniff certain things in the room—with your supervision. Then you decide when she needs to leave. Repeat this activity a few times before the baby arrives. This will let your dog know that this room belongs to a pack leader and must be respected at all times.

Control the introduction. Start by taking your dog on a long walk. Be sure to drain all of your dog’s energy. Before returning, wait at the door step; make sure your dog is in a calm-submissive mode before inviting her in. Upon entering, your dog will instantly know there is a new scent in the house. If you have already introduced the scent, it will be somewhat familiar. The mother or father holding the baby must be in a completely calm-assertive state. The dog should be allowed to sniff the baby, but at a respectful distance. During this first meeting, do not bring the baby too close. Eventually, the dog can be allowed to get closer and closer to the baby. By doing this, you are teaching the dog to respect the baby as another pack leader.

Teach your baby. Once your child is in the exploratory state, it is important to supervise all interactions between him or her and the dog. This is a great opportunity to teach your child not to bother the dog, yank her tail, etc. These lessons on mutual respect cannot begin early enough. Too many children have inadvertently provoked an otherwise peaceful dog, simply because they were unsupervised or their parents had not given them proper instruction.

Don’t forget the dog. A dog does not need toys or special attention to feel important; you simply need to maintain the routine, providing daily walks and consistent leadership. This will help your dog feel secure and allow her to relax about the new addition to the family.

Forget breed. Don’t assume your dog will not pose a problem based on breed alone, or vice versa. Sure, babies have been bitten by Rottweilers and pit bulls, but they have also been injured by labs, chows, and mixed breeds. A baby in Toronto was killed by a cute little Pomeranian. What is the key? Leadership. Be honest with yourself. Can you control your dog at all times in all situations?

Your child’s safety comes first. If, after working with a professional and on your own, you are still not able to be 100% pack leader with your dog, then you must seriously think about using those nine months for finding your dog another home.

Humanizing Your Dog

One of the most important things I want to get across is that dogs are dogs — not humans!

• Find a canine solution. Often, the solution we would use for a human is totally wrong for solving a dog’s issues. For example, when a human sees a scared or nervous dog, s/he will first offer comfort and consolation. This would never happen in the animal world and can make the problem worse instead of better, because it reinforces unstable behavior.
• Speak the animal language. When dogs come into our homes, they meet emotional energy for the first time. We shower them with affection and babble at them in high-pitched baby-talk, so they see us as excited energy. This is why many dogs don’t listen to their human caretakers. Their mothers never acted this way; where did that calm-assertive leadership go?
• Treat your dog like a dog. We often develop a different agenda for our dogs. We want to make puppies our babies. From day one, many humans forget to fulfill and understand their dog’s needs and instead project their own needs and desires on the animal.
• Be the Pack leader! In the absence of a clear leader, a dog, even a submissive one, will seek to fill what they see as the vacant leadership role. The dog will ignore the owner, act out, and can lead to serious behavior issues.

Imagine if your significant other mistook your needs for the needs of a chimpanzee; where would that leave you? Confused and disoriented. It’s the same for dogs. But their confusion and disorientation manifest in bad behavior such as tearing up the couch or incessant barking. If we don’t fulfill them as a species, our dogs won’t live a balanced, centered life.

Understanding and projecting a pack leader’s calm-assertive energy will create a positive and lasting connection with your dog.

Establishing and Keeping Alpha Position

Below is a list of rules every dog owner should follow to ensure your dog knows his place in your human pack. If your dog guards his food or growls at humans in the family, and especially if you own a wolf hybrid, these rules should be strictly followed. Dogs need to have a clear place in their pack. A dog lacking in this clear order is an unhappy dog.

Sometimes a dog might not be showing signs of aggression, however the dog is suddenly showing signs of separation anxiety, such as destructive behaviors when you leave the house. A dog that steals food from human hands has no respect for the human, and therefore does not see the human as pack leader. A dog that questions his place in the household pack can sometimes cause him to suddenly display destructive behaviors, as the dog is confused and taking his anxiety out on your house.

A dog that knows his place in his human pack is a happy dog. A dog that does not is a confused dog and can exhibit many unwanted behaviors because of it.

1. The number one way to communicate to a dog that you are his pack leader is to take him for a walk. Not the type of walk most humans take their dogs on but a pack walk, where the dog is made to heel beside or behind the human who is holding the lead. This is most important for all dogs, as in a dog’s mind, the leader always leads the way. A dog must not be allowed to sniff or eliminate anywhere he wishes, but where you allow him. One marking against a tree is enough for male dogs. The dog should be concentrating on following the human, not worrying about leading the way. This pack-type walk should be done daily. Not only will this release built-up energy, but it will satisfy the dog’s instinct to migrate which all dogs possess. Dogs that have excess energy bottled up inside them and that do not have their migration instinct met will develop various instability issues that most people mistake for being breed traits.

2. All humans must eat before the dogs, as the leader always eats first.  When you give your dog its food eat a small snack first while he is watching, lay the snack near the dog’s food so that he thinks you are eating out of his bowl (the leader always eats first).

3. No table scraps should be fed to the dogs during a meal.

4. Feedings must be at a scheduled time. (No self-feeding dog food dispensers should be used, as this allows the dog to choose when he eats.)

5. Humans must not let the dog go through any doorways first. Or up or down any stairways first. Dogs must always go through the doorways and up and down stairs after the humans, as the leader of the pack always goes first. If the dog does not stay behind the humans, the dog must be told to “stay” and given the command to “come” after all humans have passed through. (Read Training to find out the necessary basic commands all dogs should know. These commands are vital in the communication between you and your dog and should always be taught.)

6. When you leave the house or the room, even for a minute, ignore the dog for a few minutes upon your return.

7. A simple obedience command such as “sit” should be given before any pleasurable interaction with the dog (i.e., play session, petting, feeding, a walk, etc.). The children should give the dog commands at least once a day and reward with a treat when the command is followed. A simple “sit” will do. No treat should be awarded if the dog does not follow the command.  Show your dog he does not get anything for free. His food, water, treats, even praise/love have to be earned by doing something. Even something as little as sit, come, or making him wait for the treat while you hold it in front of him. Make sure the dog takes the treat from your hands gently. Do not tolerate a mouthy dog.

8. You should not lie on the floor to watch TV when the dog is around and no one should roll around the floor playing with the dog, as a human should never put himself in an equal or lesser height position than the dog.

9. You are the one who greets newcomers first, the dog is the last to get attention (the pack leader is the one who greets newcomers and lets the rest know when it is safe to greet the newcomer).

10. If a dog is lying in your path, do not walk around the dog, either make the dog move or step over the dog.

11. During the time you are establishing your higher pack position, no hugs should be given to the dog by you, as a dominant dog may consider this a challenge of power.

12. If you establish eye contact with the dog, the dog must avert his gaze first. If the human averts first this reinforces the dog’s higher power position. Tell the children not to have staring contests with the dog, as if they avert or blink first, it will only reinforce, in the dog’s mind, that he is Top Dog.

13. Ideally, dogs should not sleep in your bed. In the dog world the most comfortable place to sleep is reserved for the higher members of the pack. If a dog is allowed to sleep on the bed, the dog must be invited up and not be allowed to push the humans out of the way. Making them sleep at the foot of the bed rather than, for example, on your pillow is best.

14. Dogs must never be allowed to mouth or bite anyone at any time, including in play.

15. Any attention given to the dog, including petting, should be given when the human decides attention is to be given (absolutely no petting when the dog nudges or paws you or your hand. This would be letting the dog decide and reinforcing, in his mind, that he is higher on the scale than the human.)  

16. Games of fetch or play with toys must be started and ended by the human.

17. Very dominant dogs that have a problem with growling should not be allowed to lie on your furniture, as the leader of the pack always gets the most comfortable spot. Dogs belong on the floor. If you do decide to allow your dog on the furniture, you must be the one who decides when he is allowed up and you must be the one who decides when he is to get off, by inviting him up, and telling him to get down.

18. No tug-of-war, as this is a game of power and you may lose the game, giving the dog a reinforcement (in the dog’s mind) of top dog.

19. Dogs need to be taught a “drop it” or release command. Any objects the dog has in his possession should be able to be taken away by all humans.

20. Dogs own no possessions, everything belongs to the humans. They are all on “loan” from the human family. You should be able to handle or remove any item at all times from the dog with no problems from the dog. Even if you are taking a chicken bone out of the dog’s mouth.

21. Dogs should not be allowed to pull on the leash. When they do this they are leading the way and it is the humans that need to lead the way and show they’re higher up in the pack order. (In the wild, the leader of the pack always leads the way; the leader leads the hunt.)

22. When you put his food dish down, he must wait until you give the “OK” to eat it. Place his food on the ground and tell him to wait. If he darts at the food, block him with your body. You can point at him and tell him, “No, wait,” however do not speak much. Dogs are, for the most part, silent communicators. They feel one another’s energy and your dog can feel yours. Yes, your dog can read your emotions. So stand tall and think “big” and stay confident. Do not be nervous, your dog will sense this and assume you are weak. It is this weakness that triggers a dog to try and take over (for the good of the pack; the pack needs a strong leader). Give the dog a command before giving the food. If a dog does not follow the command (i.e. to sit), he does not eat. Try again in about 20 minutes or longer. Repeat this until the dog listens to the command. When your dog calms down and waits patiently, (ears set back, head lowered even slightly, lying down is good if he is relaxed with his ears back, no signs of growling on his face) invite him to eat his food. The people in the family the dog growls at should feed the dog the majority of the time.

23. Small dogs or puppies that demand to be picked up or put down should not get what they want until they sit or do another acceptable quiet behavior. They should not be put down unless they are settled quietly in your arms.

24. Dogs should never be left unsupervised with children or anyone who cannot maintain leadership over the dog.

25. To reinforce your position even more, you can make your dog lie down and stay there for 20 to 30 minutes a day. Tell him to lie down, then tell him to stay. If he tries to get up, correct him.

26. Last but certainly not least…when you are around your dog avoid emotions such as fear, anxiety, harshness or nervousness. Your dog can sense these emotions and will see you as weak. This will escalate your problem as your dog feels an even stronger need to be your leader. Think Big and Powerful and be calm, assertive, and consistent. Remember, there is no hiding our emotions from our dogs. They can, in a sense, read our minds in reading our emotions. This energy is the universal language of animals. Talk less, using more body language. Picture yourself, in your own mind, as big, powerful and very sure of yourself. Pull your shoulders back and stand up straight. Your dog will feel this. This is your number one resource when it comes to communicating with your dog. Your dog will be happy and secure knowing he has a strong pack leader to care for him.

HELLO RUFFUSS

Well I had a pretty awesome day! I got to go see one of my favorite guys in the whole wide world!! RUFFUSS. He is looking very handsome of coarse, and his new big sister Abby is awesome too, she is a french mastiff. They are having a bit of an issue of who’s boss, which is why I was there today but between Jenn ( Ruffuss new owner ) and I we got it all figured out. Jenn needs to be a little firmer with our boy and stop letting him away with everything Yup I told her!!  she has to stop being mommy and be pack leader! Well as I was getting ready to leave Jenn asked if our boy could come for a week to board with us and I said of coarse!  Our boy arrives next Friday for a week. Looking forward to next Friday.

WHY IS MY DOG SHY? WHAT CAN I DO? HERE IS WHAT I DO!

Do you have an overly shy dog?  Shyness can happen as a result of a prior bad experience, poor socialization, or the way you’re raising them. Bringing your dog out more will help him to enjoy the company of people and other dogs, rather than shying away all the time. Here are some suggestions to encourage your shy dog to be a little more confident.

Don’t feel sorry for your dog. While you are emotionally connected with your dog and care about him, trying to shield him from situations by pitying him does him no favors. Indeed, since dogs sense emotions, you risk him viewing pity as a sign of weakness. Your dog is more likely to be confident when he knows his pack leader is powerful and ready to protect him.

Try not to reassure your dog by petting him. This is like you  saying, “It’s all right, that’s good, good boy for feeling afraid, it’s all right” this will actually reinforce the shyness. When he’s being overly shy, the best thing that you can do is to ignore him. Really!  By giving him absolutely zero attention, you’ll be helping him to overcome his shyness.

Avoid threatening actions. For example, do not stare at your dog or make long eye contact––to him, this is threatening and can create fear responses, causing him to run and hide, pee or possibly bite. Remain calm as possible, still while retraining your dog out of his shyness.

Remove your shy dog from his “safe spot. Many overly shy dogs will choose a place which lets them feel safe, like under a table, behind a door or couch  or simply somewhere they’re less likely to be noticed. You need to get your dog out of this safety zone for the rehabilitation process to begin.

• You can do this by quietly putting a leash and collar on him and pulling him softly but insistently out.
• It’s extremely important  that you not feel sorry for him: you have to focus on getting him out of there in a gentle but firm way. Once he comes out, let him go in again.
• Wait for ten seconds or so, and then repeat.
• Practice makes perfect, and hopefully your dog will stop constantly going to his safe spot.
• Naturally, be aware of  any aggression shown toward you. If this happens, don’t allow yourself to be bitten.

Set boundaries. Decide what he’s allowed to do and what he isn’t––as with children, this will give him a sense of security. If he breaks the rules, give him a quick correction a hand movement and command or strictly spoken “No” or Uh-uh”. But never hurt him,  this will undo months of work. And be aware that forceful behavior can reinforce feelings of being traumatized––always prefer gentle, positive training over forceful training.

Confront situations that create shyness gradually but consistently. For example, if your dog is shy around certain individuals, seek to create a new bond between the dog and this person. Take it slowly though, as the dog will need time to adjust:

Let’s go for a walk! Exercising your dog will get him into his natural state of mind, which will be a great time for you to bond with him. Remember to keep him in a heel position – body block him or give him a quick correction with the leash if he goes in front of you.

 Watch for future episodes of shyness. Once your dog has learned shyness as a response, it’s conditioned. It is best to nip it in the butt with quick corrective action should it ever rear up again. Hopefully it won’t given he will be living in a loving home but you can’t control all situations that will be put in front of your dog outside the home, so be ready to help your dog get  over fear-inducing situations where needed.

Well I hope this helps you, and remember together we can accomplish anything with patience, kindness but most of all LOVE.

WHY IS MY DOG SHY? WHAT CAN I DO? HERE IS WHAT I DO!

Do you have an overly shy dog?  Shyness can happen as a result of a prior bad experience, poor socialization, or the way you’re raising them. Bringing your dog out more will help him to enjoy the company of people and other dogs, rather than shying away all the time. Here are some suggestions to encourage your shy dog to be a little more confident.

Don’t feel sorry for your dog. While you are emotionally connected with your dog and care about him, trying to shield him from situations by pitying him does him no favors. Indeed, since dogs sense emotions, you risk him viewing pity as a sign of weakness. Your dog is more likely to be confident when he knows his pack leader is powerful and ready to protect him.

Try not to reassure your dog by petting him. This is like you  saying, “It’s all right, that’s good, good boy for feeling afraid, it’s all right” this will actually reinforce the shyness. When he’s being overly shy, the best thing that you can do is to ignore him. Really!  By giving him absolutely zero attention, you’ll be helping him to overcome his shyness.

Avoid threatening actions. For example, do not stare at your dog or make long eye contact––to him, this is threatening and can create fear responses, causing him to run and hide, pee or possibly bite. Remain calm as possible, still while retraining your dog out of his shyness.

Remove your shy dog from his “safe spot. Many overly shy dogs will choose a place which lets them feel safe, like under a table, behind a door or couch  or simply somewhere they’re less likely to be noticed. You need to get your dog out of this safety zone for the rehabilitation process to begin.

• You can do this by quietly putting a leash and collar on him and pulling him softly but insistently out.
• It’s extremely important  that you not feel sorry for him: you have to focus on getting him out of there in a gentle but firm way. Once he comes out, let him go in again.
• Wait for ten seconds or so, and then repeat.
• Practice makes perfect, and hopefully your dog will stop constantly going to his safe spot.
• Naturally, be aware of  any aggression shown toward you. If this happens, don’t allow yourself to be bitten.

Set boundaries. Decide what he’s allowed to do and what he isn’t––as with children, this will give him a sense of security. If he breaks the rules, give him a quick correction a hand movement and command or strictly spoken “No” or Uh-uh”. But never hurt him,  this will undo months of work. And be aware that forceful behavior can reinforce feelings of being traumatized––always prefer gentle, positive training over forceful training.

Confront situations that create shyness gradually but consistently. For example, if your dog is shy around certain individuals, seek to create a new bond between the dog and this person. Take it slowly though, as the dog will need time to adjust:

Let’s go for a walk! Exercising your dog will get him into his natural state of mind, which will be a great time for you to bond with him. Remember to keep him in a heel position – body block him or give him a quick correction with the leash if he goes in front of you.

 Watch for future episodes of shyness. Once your dog has learned shyness as a response, it’s conditioned. It is best to nip it in the butt with quick corrective action should it ever rear up again. Hopefully it won’t given he will be living in a loving home but you can’t control all situations that will be put in front of your dog outside the home, so be ready to help your dog get  over fear-inducing situations where needed.

Well I hope this helps you, and remember together we can accomplish anything with patience, kindness but most of all LOVE.